First Look: New Mass. airport restaurant debuts — not where you might think

Although it has gotten better, “airport food” often brings up thoughts of a quick bite and a drink while waiting for a flight, often to either supplement the food served on flights or to avoid airplane food altogether.

Locally, it’s Logan airport that usually comes to mind, including its variety of restaurants and bars (and again, the choices are much better than in days past). But did you know that some of the smaller airports and airfields in the region also have interesting dining options?

Taso's Euro Cafe at Norwood airport comes to mind for its excellent Greek fare, and, until recently, Nancy’s Airfield Cafe at Minute Man Air Field in Stow. But Nancy’s closed this spring as its owner retired, and the space was empty – until a new restaurant called Fourth & Field recently debuted there. And much like its predecessor, the dining spot focuses on farm-to-table comfort food.

Much like Norwood airport and some of the other small airports and airfields in the area, Minute Man Air Field is so hidden away that you might never know it’s even there unless you get lost while driving the narrow, winding lanes of Stow. Tucked in a wooded area about midway between Route 117 and Route 111 and just south of the Boxborough line, the airfield consists of two runways, a number of small planes, a few helicopters and a handful of businesses, including Fourth & Field.

If you’re used to flying out of Logan, the tiny size of Minute Man may shock you a little, as the airfield is less than 300 acres in size and the shorter runway is just a bit more than 1/3 of a mile long. (For comparison, the longest runway at Logan is nearly 2 miles in length.)

Upon entering Minute Man Air Field, it can be difficult to figure out which building houses Fourth & Field, as the structures are rather nondescript from the outside and look geared specifically toward flying and little else. But the squat structure sitting toward the back of the parking lot is indeed home to the restaurant, and one that’s pretty comfortable overall.

Diners can choose from a couple of seating areas. The front room has an almost homey feel to it, with attractive hanging lights at the small bar which includes several seats besides high-top and low-top tables. For those who love the thrill of watching planes take off and land, the side room is the place to be – it looks out toward the runways, and this long, narrow room lit by large windows along the outer wall has the feel of an enclosed porch.

An initial visit to Fourth & Field, which first opened in September, took place on a Sunday which – at the time of this writing – features brunch and brunch only that day. Wednesdays and Thursdays are dinner-only for now, while Fridays and Saturdays include both lunch and dinner service. Based on the brunch offerings, it seems that Sundays should become popular days for the place, as the options are very impressive and lean just a bit toward upscale rather than greasy spoon brunches or breakfasts.

PHOTOS: Fourth & Field restaurant at Stow airport

One of the highlights is the Nana Betty’s Muffin Board, which consists of deliciously fresh English muffins, soft herbed butter, a peanut butter spread, jam and fresh fruit. The French toast flight is equally good, with maple syrup, bourbon syrup and a berry syrup included, and fresh fruit on top of the toast.

The brunch offerings also include chicken and waffles, but on this visit, the waffle maker was on the fritz, so the dish became chicken and pancakes; the pancakes were a wonderful substitute while the chicken tenders had a light crunchy batter with little in the way of grease.

Pretty substantial breakfast sandwiches are also available at brunch, and they can be ordered with sausage, bacon or ham. For those who love a classic breakfast plate, you can order one with eggs, home fries, toast and a choice of bacon, sausage or corned beef hash, the latter of which is heavy on the corned beef and relatively light on onions.

Other brunch menu items at Fourth & Field that sound interesting and will need to be tried on future visits include a charcuterie board with three cheeses; a smoked salmon platter with bagels, veggies and dill cream cheese; breakfast burgers; mushroom burgers; and a cranberry chicken salad.

By the way, Fourth & Field has a full liquor license and an array of cocktail and wine options. A few local beers can be ordered and the cocktails include allspice toddies and apple-maple mules, both of which are perfect for a blustery fall day at the airfield.

When Nancy’s Airfield Cafe closed earlier this year, there was some concern about what might be coming to its space, but based on a first visit to it successor, it seems that there isn’t any need to worry – Fourth & Field appears to continue the tradition of tasty, locally sourced, freshly made food in a rather unique space and location.

Airport restaurants tend not to be destination spots, but this new eatery has all the makings of such a place, at least based on early impressions.

Fourth & Field, 302 Boxboro Road, Stow, MA, 01775. fourthandfield.com