A dark, cozy North Shore pub with something for everyone

It is often easy to overlook the old standby restaurants and bars, especially in communities that have seen the opening of many new dining and drinking spots that can tend to overshadow the longtime favorites.

Take The Grog in Newburyport, for example. Within walking distance of this North Shore institution are a number of interesting new options for dining out, including some right in the heart of the downtown area, which makes them particularly easy to find for visitors to this quaint old waterside city. And Newburyport certainly sees its fair share of tourists, as there is so much to see here – beautiful architecture, a gorgeous waterfront, interesting shops and museums and easy access to some of the most spectacular beaches and salt marshes in all of Massachusetts.

Just off State Street (the bustling main drag of Newburyport), The Grog is just hidden away enough to be easily missed by visitors, which makes it lean a bit more toward being a local hangout.

The Grog has quite a rich history. The place dates back more than 50 years, but its roots go back much earlier than that. Its space on Middle Street has welcomed folks looking for food and drink since around the time of the Civil War, and it became home to a restaurant called the Pilot House after the repeal of Prohibition in the 1930s. It was turned into The Grog in 1969.

Like Newburyport itself, the restaurant oozes character, with plenty of dark wood, creaky floors and old-fashioned lights giving a snug, lived-in feel that newer dining and drinking spots simply can’t replicate, no matter how hard they try.

Most of the activity takes place on the ground floor, which includes a cozy bar and multiple dining areas, but The Grog is actually a multi-story spot. Its upper floors are used for functions and events, while its basement has been known for live music, though the pandemic put that on hold and it is not known when (or if) music might return.

It is said that the word “grog” comes from a rum and water drink enjoyed by the British navy in the 1700s, and The Grog indeed has the feel of an old English pub. The menu tends to lean a little more toward classic American fare than British, though, and many of the dishes have regional and global influences as well, which allows it to offer a bit of something for everyone.

PHOTOS: Grog and grub at The Grog in Newburyport

There are some real standouts on the menu here, including a meaty chili made using a “famous” recipe that’s easily among the best chilis found anywhere in eastern Massachusetts; an award-winning “Thomas” burger that includes a juicy grilled half-pound of Angus beef on an English muffin; a traditional New England clam chowder that has a creamy, buttery broth and gets its thickness from added potatoes; a wonderful oven-baked burrito with chicken, black beans, jack cheese and three different types of salsa; a New England-style bouillabaisse with mussels, salmon, haddock and swordfish in the stew; and British-style fish and chips with a crunchy beer-battered fresh local haddock.

At its heart, The Grog seems more like a pub than a restaurant, and its beverage options (and often-bustling bar scene) reflect this in a way. The beer list has more than 30 choices, including a number of local and regional options from such breweries as Newburyport Brewing, RiverWalk, Widowmaker, Deciduous, Ipswich Ale, Mast Landing, Smuttynose and Rockport Brewing, to name a few. Approximately 15 to 20 wine options are also available at The Grog, many of which come from the West Coast, and included is a rotating list of white wines. Cocktails are particularly popular here, and martinis and margaritas seem to be the biggest sellers, though you can also order a dark and stormy, a bloody mary and any number of other mixed drinks along with a wide variety of spirits from which to choose.

The Grog is one of those spots that has been around for so long that it is sometimes easy to totally forget about, which is a bit of a shame – it’s a special spot that feels instantly familiar even upon returning after many years away.

So many of these iconic restaurants and bars have gone away over recent times, becoming fewer and far between with each passing year, so it’s perhaps a good reminder to get back to such comfortable old haunts as The Grog while they are still around (and The Grog will hopefully be around for a long time to come). For those who haven’t yet been, yes, you can find some marvelous new dining and drinking spots in Newburyport, but to get a taste of a real favorite among the locals, this is one that’s really tough to beat.

The Grog, 13 Middle Street, Newburyport, MA, 01950. thegrog.com