Eat New England

Bar spotlight: A little bit of Key West in Boston's southern suburbs

The weather in New England can be brutal in the winter, which is why a little escapism can be good for the soul, even if it’s just hanging out for an hour or two in a Florida-style watering hole such as Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill

Inside Johnny Kono's Bar & Grill in South Weymouth, Massachusetts
NECN

The Florida Keys are known in part for their laid-back restaurants and bars where you can enjoy good food and drink, perhaps some reggae music or acoustic pop like Jimmy Buffett or Jack Johnson and magnificent sunsets over the ocean.

You can find a similar vibe at some dining and drinking spots along the New England coast — especially during the summer, when the ocean water isn’t freezing cold — and sure, you can find some places with island themes in Boston and other cities within the region, but did you know that there’s a Key West-themed bar hidden away in a residential area on the South Shore?

Several miles from the ocean, South Weymouth may seem an odd place for such a spot, but Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill is, well, a bit of an odd place in of itself, but one that locals absolutely love for its excellent food and its friendly vibe.

Weymouth is a pretty large community in area, with several distinct neighborhoods and villages, including Weymouth Landing (part of which lies within Braintree), East Weymouth, North Weymouth and South Weymouth. This last area is mostly cut off from the rest of town by Route 3.

Within South Weymouth is Columbian Square, an attractive little commercial district that is also legendary for its confusing free-for-all intersection that is fortunately in the process of being upgraded.

Johnny Kono’s sits a mile east of the square, at the fork where Park Avenue meets Ralph Talbot Street. You can also reach the bar via the Derby Street exit off Route 3, about two miles to the east. (If you come from Route 3, make sure you use your GPS, as Derby Street briefly becomes Oak Street before becoming Ralph Talbot Street where a turnoff to the right leads to another road called Oak Street and Ralph Talbot Street which inexplicably runs parallel to Ralph Talbot Street and Oak Street — don’t ask, and again, use your GPS.) If you somehow make it through Columbian Square or the Ralph Talbot Street/Oak Street confusion and arrive at Johnny Kono’s, you’ll notice that it sits next to a roadside ice cream/food stand called Jenna’s Drive-In, which was first opened by the daughter of the original owner of Johnny Kono’s. Although both places have since been sold to new owners, there’s still a food connection between the two (more on this in a bit).

The exterior of Johnny Kono’s looks a little like it could be a convenience store or a sub shop, but it is indeed a bar, and not the first drinking spot to call the space its home. A popular local watering hole called J.P. Greer's Pub was there from the 1980s until 2016, when the changeover took place. Johnny Kono’s isn’t hugely different from the old J.P. Greer’s, though it does have a decidedly nautical/tropical bent. All kinds of knickknacks and memorabilia on the walls pay homage to the Florida Keys, while a surfboard hangs from the ceiling, doubling as a rack for glassware.

The space is small but comfortable, with a dining area that has both low-top and high-top tables on the right near the entrance, while a large bar that is spacious and comfortable enough to eat a meal at sits to the left (there are also drink rails set up for those who are simply looking to have a drink).

The jukebox constantly pumps out music, and depending on who is playing tunes, you might hear anything from Deep Purple to Lynyrd Skynyrd to yes, Bob Marley or Jack Johnson.

Local bars on the South Shore typically offer bar pizza, and while Johnny Kono’s is no exception, the menu here has much more to offer than just bar pies — and very good food at that.

The chili, for example, is one of the best in the area, with plenty of cheese covering a perfect blend of beef, beans, onions and jalapeno peppers. Burger options include a low-priced “Louis’ Lunch” version (a nod to the landmark eatery in New Haven) that is basically a grilled cheese sandwich that happens to have a five-ounce burger in it.

One of the most popular items here is the Clucker, which is a huge fried chicken sandwich that is also offered next door at Jenna’s and, again, while the two places are no longer owned by the original family members who opened both, Johnny Kono’s continues to keep this item on the menu.

Another option which can be found at both places is the Gobbler, a great alternative to the Clucker. It’s basically Thanksgiving in a bun with turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce and mayo.

While the aforementioned bar pizza may not quite reach the heights of such renowned spots as the Lynwood Cafe in Randolph or Cape Cod Cafe in Brockton, it is excellent in its own right, especially when ordered with laced/burnt edges, which add some caramelization to the edge of the crust.

An interesting pizza option is the Pillow Pie, which is their take on what some establishments call an Irish pizza, with whipped potatoes, scallions, sour cream and bacon.

Some of the best options at Johnny Kono’s are within the daily specials, including quahogs, loaded tots, fish tacos, popcorn chicken and fish and chips.

PHOTOS: Key West meets South Shore at Kono's Bar & Grill

Don’t come to Johnny Kono’s expecting to choose from an endless array of local and regional beers, though the beer list has enough options to satisfy most. The bar does feel more like a place to order a shot or a mixed drink, and the shots tend to be of the “heavy pour” variety, as the bartenders are quite generous with the Irish whiskies, bourbons and the like.

And as is the case with the beer options, don’t expect extravagant cocktails, because this simply isn’t that kind of place; local hangouts like these are typically best for the basics such as gin and tonics, rum and cokes and other familiar drinks, so it’s best to keep things simple here when ordering adult beverages.

The weather in New England can be brutal in the winter, which is why a little escapism can be good for the soul, even if it’s just hanging out for an hour or two in a Florida-style watering hole such as Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill. You can gaze at the surfboards, hurricane lanterns, photos of deep-sea fishing and bumper stickers of faraway places while dining on tasty pub food and classic American fare, thinking of warmer locales while sitting in a cozy spot hidden away in the Boston suburbs.

Johnny Kono's Bar & Grill, 269 Park Avenue, Weymouth, MA, 02190. johnnykonosbargrill.com

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