<![CDATA[Eat New England – NECN]]> https://www.necn.com/https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/ Copyright 2024 https://media.necn.com/2019/09/NECN_On_Light-@3x-1.png?fit=354%2C120&quality=85&strip=all NECN https://www.necn.com en_US Wed, 07 Aug 2024 02:01:22 -0400 Wed, 07 Aug 2024 02:01:22 -0400 NBC Owned Television Stations It's a treat running across a diner in Greater Boston — this one's for restaurant lovers https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/stars-hingham-diner-review/3298894/ 3298894 post 9760221 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/08/hingham-mass-diner.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all In some parts of New England, diners are pretty easy to come by.

Worcester is one of the first places that comes to mind, with its classic railroad car-style diners (the Worcester Lunch Car Company manufactured these types of diners in the past century). Connecticut has a multitude of diners as well, much like neighboring New York (and New Jersey just beyond, possibly the country’s the diner capital).

But what about the Greater Boston area? Some can certainly be found here and there, including a few real old-school spots, such as South Street Diner in Boston, Kelly’s Diner Casey’s Diner in Natick and the Agawam Diner in Rowley, but diners don’t really seem to be a big thing locally, especially compared to the tri-state area of New York/New Jersey/Connecticut.

That’s why it’s a bit of a treat running across a diner while traveling through the region, and some don’t seem to be known at all beyond the immediate area. That’s definitely the case when it comes to a former old-fashioned diner-turned-modern eatery on the South Shore called Stars on Hingham Harbor.

Hingham is a beautiful town with miles of scenic coastline, gorgeous old homes, huge expanses of parkland and one of the most charming town centers in Massachusetts. It also happens to be a haven for restaurant lovers.

Pockets of dining spots can be found at the Derby Street Shops, near the Route 53/228 intersection by the Norwell line; at The Launch at Hingham Shipyard; and in and around the downtown area. Stars is on the edge of downtown, near where North Street heads into the heart of the town center from Route 3A on the same block as Tosca and Caffe Tosca — all three are run by the same group, Eat Well, Inc.

And while Stars isn’t right on the ocean, you can catch glimpses of the water across the street, and there are narrow but scenic parks along Hingham Harbor which make for some nice strolling before or after a meal.  

From the outside, the very colorful Stars gives hints of its past — it opened in 1989 as a no-frills old-fashioned diner. The building looks vaguely like a train car, though not to the extent of those found in Worcester and elsewhere. The inside is warm and inviting and feels more like a pleasant family-friendly restaurant (perhaps an apt description of the place) and less like a noisy greasy spoon where people grab some quick food and head out.

To the right is a bar/lounge area with window booths along the wall and a few tables between those booths and the bar itself; to the left is a dining room with more booths along both walls and some tables in the middle. The combination of hanging lights, ceiling lights, ceiling fans (with lights), prints on the walls and an abundance of windows gives the entire space a bright and airy feel, almost giving it the vibe of an art gallery or studio.

While old-school diners tend to focus on heaping portions of comfort food at cheap prices, Stars is more of a modern take on a diner, offering classic American fare with some upscale touches.

The breakfast plates here are wonderful, including the chocolate chip Belgian waffles topped with a decadent mix of strawberries and whipped cream and the cinnamon French toast made with old-fashioned cinnamon bread. The country breakfast will possibly be the first and last meal of the day — it comes complete with three eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, home fries and grilled cornbread.

The lunch and dinner menu features an endless list of comfort food items, including huge bacon and cheddar tater tots with ketchup on the side; a classic bowl of New England clam chowder with a perfect mix of clams, bacon, potatoes, and cream; fish and chips made with flaky local cod and having plenty of tartar sauce on the side; some deliciously tender teriyaki steak tips that may make people forget about some of the best tips found in the neighborhood joints just north of Boston; a half-roasted chicken (not the kind you’d probably find at a basic diner) served with herb-roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus and roasted garlic jus; a rather large portion of mac and cheese topped with tomato-parmesan bruschetta; a juicy angus burger topped with bacon, cheese and chipotle aioli; and a variety of salads and sandwiches, with the latter including a terrific blackened chicken wrap with bacon and garlic aioli.

Diners usually aren’t known for their alcoholic beverages, but since Stars isn’t exactly a traditional diner, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the offerings here are quite impressive.

The beer list is actually a bit of a stunner, as you’ll often find options that you might not see at too many other places locally, including brews from such top beermakers as Belleflower and Bissell Brothers (two top-tier breweries in Portland, Maien), Tilted Barn (Rhode Island), Ten Bends (Vermont) and Vitamin Sea (located only a few minutes away in Weymouth). Stars also serves some excellent cocktails, with its Bloody Mary being a must on a Sunday morning while options later in the day include martinis, margaritas, mojitos, raspberry lime rickeys and mimosas.

Hingham is a little off the beaten path, as much of it is several miles away from Route 3, but it is well worth getting off the highway and exploring its picturesque tree-shaded roads and laid-back town center. And while in the downtown area (or driving by the water on Route 3A), Stars on Hingham Harbor is a place that is an obvious choice if you’re hungry.

It may no longer be a basic, everyday diner, but it is a vastly appealing spot that is great for families, couples and groups of friends in the confines of a comfortable, diner-like space.

Stars on Hingham Harbor, 2 Otis Street, Hingham, MA, 02043. starshingham.com

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Fri, Aug 02 2024 05:27:12 PM
Spectacular Mexican food hidden away on a former Army base in Mass. https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/bandoleros-mexican-restaurant-devens/3275307/ 3275307 post 9671288 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/07/NECN-Bandoleros16.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 Between Massachusetts’ two main east-west highways, one offers drivers more restaurant options, including some real hidden gems.

Travelers on the Mass. Pike tend to favor stopping at the service stations for meal breaks, because it’s a toll road with relatively few exits. But Route 2 to the north is quite a bit different, with no tolls, many exits and some of the “highway” isn’t really a highway at all, rather an old-fashioned two-lane road, especially the further west you go (the stretch west of Greenfield is nearly all two lanes).

One of those Route 2 hidden gems is only a couple of miles off the highway but nearly completely unknown, perhaps because it resides within an old military installation that might seem like the last place for a restaurant worth going to. But Bandoleros Mexican Grill is all that and more, a place that hits on all fronts, including food, service and atmosphere.

Devens used to be the largest Army post in New England, but it was decommissioned in the mid-1990s and is now a residential and business center. It’s a bit of an odd place, as parts of it remain off limits to the public. While it is considered its own community, it’s actually within part of three towns — Ayer, Harvard and Shirley and does not have its own post office, library, public school system or town hall.

It does, however, have a village center of sorts, where its residents (which number a bit under 2,000) can go for food, gas and limited shopping, though the commercial district of Ayer a few minutes to the north tends to be where locals go for their everyday needs. To say that the “downtown” area of Devens is sleepy would be an understatement, but Devens Common is attractive in its own way, with lots of green space and a laid-back vibe to it, and right in the middle of it is Bandoleros, which is easy to miss from Jackson Road, the main route through Devens, even though it sits just off the street.

Bandoleros first opened in Devens in 2021, taking over the space that had once been home to the Devens Grill; the restaurant went through extensive renovations before opening, and diners will find it spacious, with a quiet dining area to the right that includes bench seating and couchlike chairs, a sleek lounge area to the left with seating at the bar along with a handful of high-top tables, and a spacious patio overlooking the common just outside the bar. Paintings of famous Mexican figures adorn the walls inside, and moody lighting helps give the place an intimate, cozy atmosphere. Outside, customers will find plenty of parking, and the sprawling common just outside is a good place to take a leisurely walk after enjoying some food and drink.

More often than not, Mexican restaurants in the suburbs of Boston and beyond tend to focus on such familiar dishes as nachos, quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas, and Bandoleros certainly offers all of these items, but the restaurant feels a touch more upscale than many of the little independent Mexican eateries that dot the region as well as some of the Mexican and Tex-Mex chains out there — its menu reflects this with a number of scratch-made items that may not be quite so familiar to those who tend to go to Mexican-American dining spots.

And the “familiar” items are anything but, as they tend to be more inventive in both their ingredients and presentation. Take the house-made blue corn quesadillas for example; these are a world away from the overly cheesy quesadillas you might find at a chain or the local pub, and the roasted poblanos, portobello mushrooms, pickled onions, tangy crema and zesty pico de gallo all work together to make this small plate a memorable dish that could easily be doubled up and turned into a full meal.

The taco options are many here, with the al pastor option being a real highlight that includes tender marinated pork, fresh pineapple and a nice mix of cilantro and onions.

One of the best items on the menu at Bandoleros may be the extraordinary torta ahogada, whose roots are in Jalisco in west-central Mexico and which is basically a pork and bean sandwich soaked in a hot and spicy criollo sauce.

A simple but flavorful dish that you might not see all that often is the choripollo, which includes a mix of chicken and chorizo in a hearty cheese sauce and is served on a bed of rice.

Seafood lovers have a few choices, including the camarones salseados, which features pan-seared jumbo shrimp served with avocado and rice, and it can be ordered with a sweat-inducing diabla sauce.

Much like the food offerings, the bar items at Bandoleros go well beyond your basic drinks, featuring fresh ingredients that may cause you to have to wait a few minutes for your drinks to be made, but the wait is well worth it.

The margaritas here are works of art and make use of organic agave, while the Elmer’s Wahakan is their take on an old-fashioned and gets quite a kick from the use of mezcal. The Diablito might not be for the faint of heart, as it makes use of ghost tequila (yes, it is made with a pinch of ghost pepper), mixing the heat with the sweet and sour tastes of tamarind. A “safer” drink might be the Pepefino, which has a grassy/woodsy flavor from the use of gin, cucumber and rosemary.

Beer and wine are also offered at Bandoleros, as is an extensive list of tequilas that range from your basic Patron to a wallet-busting Clase Azul Ultra that tops out above $400.

Devens is a rather fascinating place with a lot of history behind it, but it’s one that many tend to pass by, perhaps because it feels off-limits to visitors. But it is indeed open to all (well, most of it, anyways), and is a welcoming place, one of many communities just off Route 2 that is worth visiting. One of the main reasons to visit Devens is this little-known Mexican restaurant that locals know all about for its food, drink and hospitality.

Bandoleros Mexican Grill, 4 Ryan’s Way, Devens, MA, 01434. mybandoleros.com

[Ed note: A second location of Bandoleros opened earlier this year and can be found in Concord.]

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Sat, Jul 06 2024 06:10:00 AM
Inside a rustic pub hidden in a waterfront mill that used to produce rope and twine https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/plymouth-massachusetts-black-raspberry-pub/3260680/ 3260680 post 9621514 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/06/black-raspberry-pub-plymouth.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all One of the hottest communities in eastern Massachusetts for dining is also one of the biggest tourist spots in the state, and as the summer approaches, visitors to Plymouth will find a number of new restaurants there along with some old standbys.

And while much of the action revolves around the area from the waterfront up to Main Street in the center of this sprawling South Shore town, there are several other villages and neighborhoods in Plymouth’s borders that are home to varied dining spots, including some that are off the beaten path and known mainly to locals.

The Black Raspberry Pub is one such place, tucked away at the very edge of a historic mill building in North Plymouth and which you’ll never see from the road, making it a true hidden gem that’s also quite close to Route 3, the main highway that leads from Boston to Cape Cod.

Cordage Park has quite an interesting history. It was once home to a ropemaking company that made rope and twine for seafaring vessels in the 1800s. The factory building on the site was massive, and part of it remains today, along with some newer development – the entire complex is now known as the Cordage Commerce Center.

The section of the old mill that’s still standing is home to office space and a number of businesses, including the Black Raspberry Pub, situated along the far-right side of the building and toward the back, making it completely hidden from Route 3A, the road that winds past the development.

Its location, facing a large parking lot may not look like much at first, but the Black Raspberry Pub is quite an appealing place. Its closed-in patio out front is a nice spot to catch an ocean breeze on a warm summer night, while the interior has all the charm you might expect from an old mill building.

The space has lots of nooks and crannies and a warm, welcoming feel with a hardwood floor, wooden ceiling with exposed pipes and beams, hanging lights and windows letting in just enough light to keep the space from feeling too cavernous.

A very long bar sits by the entrance and runs through the middle of the room, a good option for both eating and drinking, and the dining sections include a mix of high-top and low-top tables.

Being that it’s housed in an old building with wooden floors and a low ceiling, you might expect the noise level to be high, and it can indeed get a bit loud when the place is full, which may be one reason to sit outside if it’s busy and the weather is decent.

Even though it has the word “pub” in its name, The Black Raspberry Pub feels more like a restaurant than a watering hole, and its food menu has a lot of options, including classic American fare, bar food and some items that could be considered New American.

Perhaps the most popular choices here are the meaty and satisfying jumbo wings, which can be ordered with any number of sauces, including buffalo, teriyaki, mango habanero, Jamaican jerk, gochujang, garlic parmesan and more, along with dry rubs such as bay, ranch, Cajun and chipotle garlic.

Chicken tenders are also a favorite here, and they can be ordered either “old school” or “crisper style” and have the option to be plain or tossed in a sauce.

The Black Raspberry Pub also offers South Shore-style bar pizza, and this is an overlooked spot for this style of pizza as it is outstanding — especially when done with burnt or laced edges that give the outer crust extra flavor from caramelization.

One of the best toppings is one that you sometimes find in areas with a high Portuguese population — a ground linguica pizza whose topping tastes just a bit like pepperoni if it were ground up, adding a nice bit of saltiness and spiciness to the pizza. Other good picks are a potato skin pizza, a Big Mac pizza and a banana pepper pizza, the last of which you also tend to find in Portuguese areas south of Boston.

The list of apps at the Black Raspberry Pub includes such familiar items as (depending on specials of the day and menu changes) nachos, pretzels, potato skins, tots, fried ravioli and Brussels sprouts, and for those who might want more of a full meal instead of wings, tenders or pizza, the place offers such items as a hearty three-cheese macaroni and cheese which can be ordered with buffalo chicken mixed in; a classic New England fish and chips plate with tartar sauce and coleslaw; spicy shrimp tacos with mango salsa and sweet potato fries on the side; and chicken enchiladas with rice and beans.

Sandwich options include burgers, chicken sandwiches and a steak bomb.

Drinks at the Black Raspberry tend to lean a bit more toward cocktails and local beers, with the latter including brews from such nearby beermakers as Widowmaker, Cape Cod and Cisco.

Plymouth may appear to be a long way from Boston, but when traffic is moving, it really doesn’t take long to get there, and North Plymouth is actually about as easy to get to from the southern suburbs of Boston as it is from the southern reaches of Plymouth itself (which is by far the largest Massachusetts community in the area). And the town is becoming more and more of a destination spot for restaurants with its many options. And if you want to head to a spot that few folks outside of the area seem to know about, the Black Raspberry Pub is one to consider for both its food and its atmosphere.

Black Raspberry Pub, 36 Cordage Park Circle, Plymouth, MA, 02360. instagram.com/theblackraspberrypub

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Sun, Jun 16 2024 04:44:45 PM
A new option for Nepali food debuts in Boston's northwest suburbs https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/zomsa-restaurant-arlington-review/3248769/ 3248769 post 9583597 https://media.necn.com/2024/05/NECN-Zomsa16.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 The dining scene in Arlington has changed quite a bit over the years. Once known mainly for its Greek pizza houses and takeout Chinese food, it’s now a town with quite a variety of options for different cuisines.

Indeed, while this Boston suburb may not have much in the way of high-end dining or destination spots, it is certainly a community full of outstanding eateries that won’t break the bank, including highly regarded Mexican, Indian, Vietnamese, Greek, Korean, Italian, Turkish, Thai, Lebanese and Japanese eateries.

Now, Arlington is home to a restaurant that features Nepali fare: Zomsa Restaurant and Bar. It’s another local option for inexpensive street food that’s already starting to make a name for itself with outstanding dishes.

Zomsa first opened in April, moving into the space in the center of town that had been home to Taipei Tokyo and, before that, Shanghai Village, the latter a popular spot for Chinese food for nearly 40 years until being hit by a fire in 2018 and never reopening.

The people behind Zomsa did a nice job of renovating the space, which has multiple sections, including a comfortable seating area for people waiting for a table or takeout to the left complete with couches and sofas; a modern-looking bar with a few seats in the middle; and a separate dining room to the right with bench seats and both round and square tables. Attractive hanging lights are set up throughout the restaurant, and large windows allow extra light in while also helping make for a bit of people-watching along Mass. Ave.

The restaurant considers itself a South Asian dining spot, so it’s not just Nepali food. There are plenty of familiar (and not-so familiar) Indian dishes, but the Nepali fare stands out when compared to the many Indian eateries in the northwest suburbs.

The menu at Zomsa’s street food section features some very interesting options, including momos – dumplings with a relatively thick but soft wrapper that is crimped and pleated, looking vaguely like Chinese soup dumplings. Momos do not have broth inside them. Rather, they’re stuffed with meat and/or vegetables, and in the case of those offered at Zomsa, they can be ordered with chicken, pork, lamb or veggies.

The restaurant has three momo options: Steamed, with a hearty sauce with a variety of spices; sauteed with veggies and sauce; and as a soup. The simple steamed pork momos are a highlight, stuffed to the gills with pork. The sauce has just a slight kick but not so much that it detracts from the dumplings themselves.

Other options for street food include fried rice, chop suey, marinated chicken sizzlers and chatpate, which involves puffed rice, vegetables, cilantro and a mix of spices and lemon juice.

Much of the rest of the menu at Zomsa includes items you might find in an Indian restaurant, though with a few other Nepali options that might not be seen on Indian menus, including a spicy and aromatic soup with Tibetan origins called thukpa; tareko kukhura, which is breaded fried chicken in Himalayan spices; and newari bara, or savory lentil pancakes.

Some of the appetizers and meals often ordered at Indian dining spots are marvelous here, including the paneer pakoras, which are deep-fried fritters with a mild cheese and just the right amount of salt on the outside; a classic chicken tikka masala that can be ordered mild, moderate or hot and which comes with diced meat, rice and a creamy sauce; and palak paneer, which comes with cheese, a creamy spinach curry and rice.

Tandoori chicken, lamb, salmon and shrimp are also available, as are various breads (roti, paratha, naan, poori). Meals include papadum lentil crisps with assorted chutneys.

Zomsa does have a full liquor license, so those who dine in can choose from various beers, wines and spirits, while the menu also includes a Himalayan masala tea, and desserts include Indian doughnuts along with tres leches.

Early impressions of Zomsa Restaurant and Bar are very positive, and the dining spot is one of two new places in Arlington that have gotten noticed by food lovers in and around Boston (the other one being Quilo’s Taqueria down the street in East Arlington, which had lines around the block when it first opened).

There have been some ebbs and flows with the Arlington dining scene over the years — including during the pandemic, which saw the closings of such places as Sabzi, Tango, Twyrl and Common Ground — but things seem to be looking up once again for this Boston suburb, and Zomsa certainly appears to be a part of that with its delicious food, friendly service, laid-back atmosphere and reasonable prices.

Zomsa Restaurant and Bar, 434 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, MA, 02474. zomsaboston.com

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Sat, Jun 01 2024 06:01:00 AM
Italian markets don't get much better than this longtime fave just north of Boston https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/bobs-italian-foods-medford/3237613/ 3237613 post 9546861 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/05/NECN-BobsItalian5.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Sub shops tend to do really well in good times and bad. They are typically quick and convenient, inexpensive and geared toward takeout and delivery — that last item being particularly important over the past few years, when the pandemic left to-go meals as about the only option out there for quite some time.

And while countless full-service restaurants had to make some pretty major adjustments during the height of COVID, the corner sub shops and pizzerias generally had to make only some minor adjustments, like adding curbside pickup and gearing a bit more toward delivery.

Now that the pandemic is (knock wood) pretty much in the rearview mirror, restaurants have mostly returned to normal with more and more people feeling comfortable dining in, but takeout and delivery remain much more popular options today than pre-COVID. It doesn’t just help sub shops and pizza places but also corner food stores, including Italian markets, which, in a way, are like turbocharged sub shops, offering much more than just sandwiches, salads and grill items.

One great example is Bob’s Italian Foods, an old-school place in South Medford that has been a popular spot for locals in this close-knit Italian neighborhood since the 1930s, and which continues to be a beloved place for many today.

Like so many great Italian markets — New Deal Fruit in Revere and Venda Ravioli and Tony’s Colonial Food in Providence’s Federal Hill come to mind — Bob’s is a bit of a one-stop shop kind of place. Locals can be seen in the two aisles up front buying everyday items for meals at home, including cheese, bread, olive oil, dry pasta, olives, peppers and Italian cookies, while cases along the left wall are stacked with an array of ravioli and other stuffed pastas along with pasta sauce, premade meals and more. Further in the back of the store is the deli area, which is where workers make all kinds of subs and sandwiches, while scratch-made meals are prepared up front.

To some, the offerings at Bob’s begin and end with their Italian sub, or more accurately, their Italian subs (plural). They have a house Italian, a deluxe Italian and a deluxe Italian caprese, along with other options that are in the same ballpark as the Italian subs — a prosciutto caprese as well as a mortadella, a porchetta, a capicola and a sopressata, all of which come with provolone.

Any of these sandwiches are worth getting, but the pick of the lot might be the deluxe Italian caprese, which comes with prosciutto di parma, mortadella, capicola, sopressata, buffalo mozzarella, basil, tomato and oil, and is often mentioned as being among the best Italian subs in the entire Greater Boston area. The House Italian is another top pick, especially if you like a combination of hot ham, mortadella, salami, provolone and hots.

As good as the Italian subs are at Bob’s, their other subs and sandwiches are certainly worth considering as well, with the overstuffed chicken parm sub being a messy but delicious choice while the equally messy meatball sub is not something you’ll want to eat if you’re wearing a nice shirt.

The firm pork and beef meatballs swimming in tomato sauce is tough to beat. The eggplant parm sub is every bit as good as the chicken parm. Some of the more “American” subs, such as the steak and cheese, roast beef and corned beef, all use high-quality meat, and the bread used with all of the subs is as good as what’s stuffed inside them, with the small and jumbo sizes using soft braided bread with sesame seeds and the large using French bread.

If you’re looking for more of a full meal, the pasta dishes made at the sauté table are an often-overlooked option at Bob’s, and the dishes are of the type that you might get at a full-service Italian restaurant, especially those that use the freshly made pasta.

A few of the highlights include a traditional spaghetti and meatballs with an aromatic tomato and basil sauce; a simple but wonderful cacio e pepe with olive oil, butter, black pepper and grated pecorino romano; a hearty chicken marsala with ziti, mushrooms, shallots and pecorino romano; and a rich-tasting tortellini alfredo with broccoli and grated pecorino romano.

Some of the dinners come with a salad and bread, and most come in such big portions that they can last for two (if not three) meals.

A few other items that Bob’s offers are worth noting, including their ever-popular squares of Sicilian pizza. Unlike some shops in the Boston area that serve a thinner bakery pizza that has more in the way of sauce and less in the way of cheese, the ones here are thick, crunchy and have a pretty substantial topping of mozzarella, and you’ll typically find a plain and a pepperoni here, though slices with the works are often available as well.

The steak tips sold in the back area are a must if you like the type of lean and tender tips found just north of Boston, and a side that should be considered are the mountain of steak fries which go well with the steak tips, or the subs for that matter.

To those who live in and around Medford, Bob’s is an institution of sorts, but because it’s off the beaten path in a mostly residential area between Medford Square and Somerville’s Magoun Square, it’s actually a bit of a hidden gem that has still not been discovered by many in Boston and communities to the west and south — and it isn’t really a place that tourists and visitors tend to go to unless they do a bit of research.

With takeout continuing to be a preferred option for many, places like Bob’s Italian Foods will likely keep doing well and attracting new customers even after all these years of being in business, which is great to see, especially considering how many iconic restaurants, bars and food shops have disappeared from the local landscape over the past few years.  

Bob’s Italian Foods, 324 Main Street, Medford, MA, 02155. bobsfood.com

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Fri, May 17 2024 06:09:22 PM
Love bar pizza? Here's a truly great hidden gem https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/taunton-mass-bar-pizza-smittys/3227118/ 3227118 post 9513479 https://media.necn.com/2024/05/NECN-SmittysPub9.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,224 These days, it seems, everyone is talking about South Shore-style bar pizza, that unique type of pizza found in countless drinking spots south of Boston.

The heart of bar pizza country tends to be in a little strip of communities not too far south of the city (like Easton, Stoughton, Brockton, Randolph, Whitman, Hanson, Abington and Weymouth), and most famous places for bar pizza are ones found there, with Randolph’s Lynwood Cafe and Brockton’s Cape Cod Cafe two of the obvious names.

But there are some excellent spots for bar pie lie further south, all the way down to the South Coast and Cape Cod., which makes some wonder about lesser-known spots that meet — or possibly even surpass — the greatness of these places.

What makes finding the best of the best so tough is that everyone seems to have an opinion when it comes to bar pie, so researching websites and social media (including the venerable South Shore Bar Pizza Social Club Facebook page, which has more than 65,000 members as of this writing) is highly recommended.

By the way, some of the “rules” for good bar pizza from its fanatics can be rather curious. Some say that the pizza should be placed in bags rather than boxes, and that some of the best versions don’t actually come from restaurants at all, but rather from social clubs, veterans’ halls (Hoey’s at the AMVETs in Randolph is a great example of this), and in one case, even a private home: J’s Flying Pizza, which is made in someone’s garage in a residential neighborhood in Bridgewater.

When it comes to lesser-known restaurants and watering holes that offer outstanding bar pizza, a few names come to mind: O’Toole’s in Whitman, the Next Page Cafe in Weymouth, Poopsie’s in Pembroke and a nearly completely unknown place tucked away in a working-class Taunton neighborhood called Smitty’s Pub & Pizza.

Smitty’s is one of those spots you may hear about from hardcore bar pizza aficionados, but very few others. It checks off all the boxes for a classic bar pizza joint, as it’s in a residential area off the beaten path, it looks rough around the edges from the outside (though looks can be deceiving — it’s a pretty mellow place) and the interior has everything you want in an old-school spot: wood-paneled walls, a dark interior due to a lack of windows, sports on TV, Keno, a few high-tops and some bar seating, food served on red and white checkered paper and, well, you get the picture.

Indeed, this is a place that would probably be equally comfortable in the far northern reaches of New Hampshire or in the vast wilderness of the Adirondack region of New York, a classic roadhouse that is only 30 miles from Boston but which feels a world away.

For those who are unfamiliar with bar pizza, it’s quite a bit different from most other pizza styles, maybe being closest to Greek pizza. Both are cooked in pans, tend to have rich and zesty sauce, make use of cheddar cheese and have a stiff crust with a bit of a crunch, though that’s pretty much where the similarities end.

Bar pizzas, for instance, are small — so small that it’s easy to eat one on your own, and maybe even more than one if you’re hungry enough. Also, some versions (like that of the Lynwood) have a particularly dense and heavy crust that’s almost like shortbread, and one of the signature features of the crust of good bar pies is its laced or burnt edges, which comes from tomato sauce and cheese at the very edge of the crust being caramelized, giving an added boost in flavor.

Some may say that such a pizza looks “overcooked,” but those who order it this way (and those places that do it this way automatically) know otherwise.

Not all dining and drinking spots that serve bar pizza make their pies in that traditional way, but Smitty’s pretty much aces it in nearly every way, combining the creamy and bright flavors of the cheddar cheese with the zestiness of the sauce and the biscuit-like consistency of the crust in a pie that rivals just about anything out there; the laced edges here are as good as they come.

And this being Taunton, which is in a section of the state that is heavily Portuguese, the toppings go beyond your typical mushroom, pepperoni, black olives and hamburg, and include chopped chourico and ground linguica, the latter of which is nothing short of spectacular, adding a smoky, spicy, garlicky taste to the pizza.

By the way, for those who would rather opt for something other than bar pizza, Smitty’s also offers such options as housemade potato chips, wings, tenders, burgers and calzones, while drinks tend to lean toward mass-market beers, mixed drinks and spirits.

Eastern Massachusetts has a number of local foods that may be a bit tougher to find outside of the region, including roast beef sandwiches ordered three-way (mayo, cheese, sauce), steak tips and, of course, bar pizza. Lovers of these foods are constantly on the lookout for hidden gems — and when it comes to bar pizza, Smitty’s Pub is among the most hidden and the best, making it a place well worth seeking out.

Smitty’s Pub & Pizza, 445 Bay St, Taunton, MA, 02780. instagram.com/smittyspubandpizza

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Sun, May 05 2024 10:38:36 AM
Tree House Deerfield: A hidden brewery like none other https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/tree-house-brewery-deerfield-review/3214599/ 3214599 post 9474606 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/04/NECN-TreeHouse9.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Breweries come in all shapes and sizes, from basement businesses to single rooms where the owner might be pouring beers for customers to restaurants that just happen to include beermaking operations.

And some breweries are true destinations, multipurpose facilities that bring people in for live music, art shows, trivia nights, arcade and board games, corporate functions and more. One spot that seems to fit in this category sits at roughly the gateway to the Berkshires.

While Tree House Brewing Company is known for its always-busy facility in the central Massachusetts town of Charlton (and is becoming increasingly known for its unusual outlet at a golf course in Tewksbury), its location in South Deerfield is like nothing else out there, almost like a museum to all things beer.

The meteoric rise of Tree House is due in part to its many award-winning beers, competing with such upper echelon breweries as Hill Farmstead in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont and being a favorite to those who love juicy New England IPAs, though their offerings are actually more wide-ranging, much like that of Hill Farmstead, whose extraordinary hazy IPAs only scratch the surface there.

Starting out as a tiny operation in Brimfield in 2011, then moving to space in nearby Monson a couple of years later, Tree House really hit its stride once it opened a new location in Charlton in 2017 and people from Boston (and elsewhere) soon started making the trek to wait in long lines to stock up on a month’s worth of beer.

The company subsequently bought a farm in Woodstock, Connecticut; the building in Deerfield, once home to a publishing company; a facility overlooking Cape Cod Bay in Sandwich; and the entire Tewksbury Country Club. It still maintains a brewery in Monson as well.

Each location of Tree House has a different feel to it, and the fact that the Deerfield facility is housed in an office building could have caused it to have a generic feel. Instead, it’s something unique, because of all the thought that was put into its design.

Entering the parking lot off Routes 5 and 10 seems much like entering an office park — visitors pass an enormous warehouse/distribution area to the left before arriving at the entrance, which opens up into a merchandise store, a tiny coffee shop and a counter where people purchase beer to go.

Upon first glance, it appears that this might be all there is to the facility, but a walkway to the right with a “taproom” sign leads to the heart of the space, bringing people into a colorful area whose walls are made up of Tree House beer cans, then veering right, down a long walkway with more beer cans built into the walls along with sketches of New England scenes that some of the Tree House cans are known for.

The walkway at Tree House eventually leads to the taproom, which sits far below and looks more like a cafeteria in a corporate building, complete with indoor plants, a little fish pond (yes, a fish pond), and an airy vibe thanks to its soaring ceiling and abundance of light coming in through its many windows.

Seating is a mix of low-top tables and high-tops that use barrels as tables. A counter for ordering beer is on one side while a counter for ordering pizza (more on this in a bit) is on the other, while a large patio is set up just outside the taproom.

Speaking of the outdoors, the Deerfield location of Tree House has a “summer stage” on the lawn outside for live music concerts, including national acts, and it has a “house theater” inside that is also used for live performances. (Another indoor space, called The Julius Room — which can be seen from the walkway leading to the taproom — can be rented out for a variety of events and functions.)

As mentioned earlier, Tree House has made a name for itself partly because of its hazy and citrusy New England IPAs, including some specific beers that are often mentioned as among the best in the nation (Julius is perhaps its best-known, while others include Green and King Julius). These IPAs are very different from your typical West Coast IPAs, which tend to be bitter and intense, and the versions that Tree House puts out are typically even juicier and less bitter than some of the other New England IPAs out there.

But Tree House holds its own when it comes to other beer styles. Its Double Shot stout is a great example, having a near-perfect mix of chocolate and coffee flavors, and the Bear With A Hint Of Coffee is another great choice for those who love coffee-flavored beers.

Other non-IPA options worth checking out include No Surprises (an easy-to-drink Czech pilsner), Free to Roam (a grassy and crisp Helles lager) and Ace in the Hole (a slightly smoky porter).

There has been much chatter about the pizza that Tree House in Deerfield has been serving, and it’s easy to dismiss such talk, because conventional wisdom says that breweries are supposed to put beer first and food second. But the pizza served here (and now in Tewksbury and Sandwich as well) is nothing short of spectacular, even giving the legendary New Haven pizzerias a run for their money.

Unsurprisingly, the people behind the brewery have been influenced by both New Haven-style pizza and New York City-style pizza, and it shows. The charred, blistered, bubbly crust; the crispiness on the bottom and chewiness on the top; the mix of shredded and grated cheeses; and the use of seasonal, locally sourced ingredients all make for pies that may just bring some people here not for the beer but the pizza.

Options include basic cheese, margherita, pepperoni, white pizza and a vodka pizza that is made using house vodka, and all pies are 18 inches, which is more than enough for two people — and to impart a bit of a kick to the pizzas, hot honey can be added to any of them.

It’s unusual for a brewery to offer great beers, outstanding food, live music from nationally recognized acts and the possibility of hosting birthday parties, business functions and even weddings, but Tree House in Deerfield is indeed an unusual place. For most, simply grabbing an award-winning beer and a top-tier pizza before or after a trip through the Pioneer Valley or the Berkshires is enough of a draw, making this a must-stop for travelers, and an easy one to boot, as it’s just off I-91 and not all that far from Route 2.

Tree House Brewing Company, 1 Community Place, Deerfield, MA, 01373. treehousebrew.com/visiting-deerfield

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Fri, Apr 19 2024 04:37:08 PM
Just off I-95 in Newton, a watering hole that feels like rural Ireland https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/dunn-gaherin-bar-newton-mass/3197693/ 3197693 post 9415826 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/03/dunn-gaherins-newton-pub.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all It’s no secret that the Boston area is home to countless Irish pubs, and there really is something for everyone out there.

in and around the city you can find old-school dive bars where pints and shots are the main draw, upscale restaurant-style pubs with inventive takes on Irish and various global cuisines, youth-oriented hotspots with nightlife including music and dancing, laid-back family-friendly places where the focus is on making everyone feel at home and traditional pubs of the type that you might find along a country road in the heart of the Emerald Isle.

There is one pub hidden away in the western suburbs of Boston that combines the best of the latter two categories. That’s helped make Dunn-Gaherin’s Food and Spirits in Newton Upper Falls such a beloved spot for locals for many years now.

The city of Newton is basically a collection of villages that run the gamut from the quiet upper-class neighborhood of Waban to the bustling commercial hub of Newton Centre to the close-knit Italian-American community of Nonantum. Newton also has some old industrial areas within its city limits, including Newton Upper Falls, a well-preserved mill village along a particularly scenic section of the Charles River (walking trails lead to a gorge and waterfall here) that has some of the most interesting architecture in all of Newton.

Just east of the heart of the tiny downtown area of Newton Upper Falls is where you’ll find Dunn-Gaherin’s, set among a mix of old and newer homes along a mostly residential street that eventually winds its way to Route 9.

The first thing you may notice about Dunn-Gaherin’s is that the place looks exactly like some of the traditional Irish pubs found in Dublin and Galway, or, for that matter, the winding lanes well outside of those Irish cities. It is utterly charming, with its flower boxes in the windows, yellow side wall and outdoor string lights giving it a decidedly European feel.

The second thing you might notice is that the parking lot along the side wall is quite narrow, so much so that customers are required to back into the spaces, and during the warmer months last year, an outdoor patio was set up in the lot; it isn’t known if the setup will remain the same this year, but if it is, there is some street parking available and the patio makes up for the lack of parking, being a very nice spot when the weather is good. 

Dunn-Gaherin’s is every bit as traditional looking inside as it is on the outside, with the kind of warm and welcoming feel that make Irish pubs so popular.

Its front has a small U-shaped bar with high-top tables nearby. Beyond the bar area is a mix of high-tops, low-tops, booths and bench seats. The back area perhaps feels most like the classic pubs of Ireland, with its low ceiling, sconces that emit warm light, wooden booths, string lights, Irish flags, Guinness flags, wooden beams and memorabilia on the walls. The middle of the place has an almost churchlike feel, with a soaring wooden ceiling and windows way up top and a chandelier hanging from the ceiling. (Traditional Irish road signs only add to the pub’s aesthetic appeal.)

While some Irish pubs in and around Boston don’t offer a whole lot to eat, Dunn-Gaherin’s puts as much focus on its food options as it does on its drink options. The menu is quite varied, with a mix of Irish fare, comfort food, pub grub and both classic American and New American food.

It may come as no surprise that the fish and chips is one of the most popular (and best) items and includes fresh haddock fillets, not overly greasy, that are served with fries and tartar sauce. Another beloved item here is one of the appetizers: the eggplant fries, which are topped with parmesan cheese and come with marinara sauce. Their mild and slightly meaty flavor may make you quickly forget about traditional fries.

Other apps that are worth looking at include some particularly meaty wings that can be ordered with an array of sauces, including buffalo, honey hot and garlic parmesan, and the basic chicken fingers are anything but basic, with a thick but non-greasy batter and are served with a pile of fries.

Several burgers are offered at Dunn-Gaherin’s, including a delicious Irish burger with caramelized onions and Irish cheddar, while an overstuffed pastrami sandwich and an Irish grilled chicken sandwich (also with caramelized onions and Irish cheddar) top the handheld options.

One other entree in addition to the fish and chips needs to be pointed out, as the meatloaf is absolutely decadent – topped with a good amount of dark gravy, it can be served with mashed potatoes, which goes nicely with the gravy.

Being that Dunn-Gaherin’s is an Irish pub, Guinness Stout is an obvious choice here (and they do a very good pour) as is a pint of Smithwick’s or a bottle of Harp, but a number of great local and regional beers are served as well, including brews from Austin Street, Widowmaker, The Shed, Von Trapp, Mighty Squirrel, Wormtown, Allagash, Fiddlehead, Jack’s Abby, Lone Pine, Foundation, Mast Landing and Narragansett. The drinks menu also includes wine and cocktails, and Irish whiskeys are always an option, including a glass of the ever-popular Jameson.

Dunn-Gaherin’s is the type of place where you might see young couples, retirees, groups of co-workers or families, solo diners at the bar, softball teams and construction workers to name a few, as the place is welcoming to all and has been so since opening back in the early 1990s. The fact that it is almost within sight of Route 128 makes it a pretty convenient stop for travelers, too, so if you’re looking to grab a bite to eat and a pint in a low-key Irish pub, this is one of the better options that you’ll find in the Greater Boston area.

Dunn-Gaherin’s Food and Spirits, 344 Elliot Street, Newton, MA, 02464. dunngaherins.com

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Fri, Mar 29 2024 08:47:59 PM
Route 1-stop shop: Where to grab lobster rolls, local beer and more entering Maine https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/route-1-stop-shop-where-to-grab-lobster-rolls-local-beer-and-more-entering-maine/3180861/ 3180861 post 9361201 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/03/NECN-MaineBeerCafe13.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Maine’s southernmost town has made quite a name for itself of late, as Kittery has gone from being known mostly for its naval base and factory outlets — a stop in the road for people on their way to places like York, Ogunquit, Kennebunkport, Portland and beyond – to being a tourist town in its own right.

Today, this old seaside town just over the New Hampshire border has become a destination spot for its beautiful ocean views, vibrant arts and music scene, historic neighborhoods and its many top restaurants, including a few often mentioned as being among the best in all of New England.

While the charming Kittery Foreside area is where much of the draw in town is these days, the more generic-looking strip of Route 1 continues to be a popular spot, with its busy outlet stores and handful of dining spots that cater to shoppers. Included on this road are well-known restaurants like When Pigs Fly, Bob’s Clam Hut and the Weathervane, but there are also some lesser-known places, including the Maine Beer Café, a little roadside establishment that is easy to miss but is a must for comfort food and — as you might have figured out from the name — craft brews from a state that has quietly become one of the best in the country for beer.

Unlike some other factory outlet towns (North Conway, New Hampshire, comes to mind), Kittery’s strip of outlets is quite small, almost to the point of being a blink-and-you-miss-it area if all the lights happen to be green. Coming off Interstate 95 and heading north on Route 1, the strip begins almost immediately and ends just as quickly as it starts, the road suddenly becoming rural as it heads toward York.

Right around the end of the strip of outlets is the Maine Beer Café on the left, and just ahead on the right, When Pigs Fly, both of which are just far away from the outlets enough to be overlooked by those who aren’t familiar with Kittery. The Maine Beer Café is kind of hidden in plain sight, residing in a commercial building just past a gas station and tiny strip mall, and its sign isn’t all that prominent along a mostly undeveloped straightaway where drivers start to pick up speed on their way north.

The part of the structure in which the Maine Beer Café resides appears rather tiny from the outside, but it’s pretty comfortable inside, with soft lighting, tables that are well spaced apart, a cozy bar in the center of the room and a couple of window seats in the front. Some limited seating can be found outside, including picnic tables on the grass by the parking lot for those who prefer sun and a table or two by the covered front doorstep area for those who’d opt for shade. The setup inside has the appearance of a counter-service spot, but this is a full-service place where the person behind the bar might be wearing two hats, pouring drinks while also waiting tables.

The name Maine Beer Café could be easily be mixed up with that of one of the best-known breweries in the state (the Maine Beer Company, whose Maine Lunch IPA is near legendary in New England), but the restaurant has no connection to the brewery in Freeport (another factory outlet town), an hour to the north. The Maine Beer Café does serve Maine Beer Company brews, however, along with some of the best that the state has to offer, but more on that in a bit, as the food here is great enough for people to come here even if they aren’t into beer.

This tends to be a soup, salad and sandwich kind of place that focuses on simple comfort food, and hamburgers and hot dogs in particular tend to dominate the menu.

Three types of burgers are offered — classic, Texan and BBQ — and each includes two thin patties that are basically smash burgers, though with high-quality angus beef.

The hot dogs are old-school Kayem franks on a New England-style split-top bun, and choices include a regular dog with the usual options for toppings or a messy but delicious chili cheese dog, and because the hot dogs are so cheap, many who come here opt for a pair of dogs rather than just one.

The menu at the Maine Beer Café offers more than just burgers and dogs, including a smoky clam chowder or a savory gumbo, along with a goat cheese and apple salad. Appetizers include some delectable chicken bites that are served with a choice of buffalo sauce, ranch, blue cheese or BBQ, and a French onion dip with kettle chips that may take you back to your youth.

Meals include a few chicken sandwich options, a BLT wrap and, this being Maine, a lobster roll that’s almost shockingly great considering that most top Maine lobster rolls tend to come from lobster houses and seafood shacks on the water. The ones here are done nearly perfectly, with just a little bit of mayo added and the meat (which comes from a local seafood wholesaler a couple of miles away) stuffed into a split-top buttered bun.

People always seem to talk about Vermont when it comes to world-class beers, but Maine may have surpassed the Green Mountain State when it comes to craft brews (though honestly, you can’t go wrong with breweries in either state, or much of the rest of New England, for that matter). The offerings here are a beer lover’s dream, including options from such breweries as Peak, Allagash, Maine, Belleflower, Geary, Battery Steele, Austin Street, Lone Pine, Banded, Barreled Souls, Gneiss and, well, you get the picture.

To further muddy the waters, the Maine Beer Café also offers beers from such beloved Vermont breweries as Lawson’s, Foam, Switchback and, last but certainly not least, the one and only Hill Farmstead, which has won too many awards to count. Beers from elsewhere in New England can also be ordered here, including from Schilling, Stoneface, Deciduous, Trillium and Moat Mountain, and moving beyond beer, the Maine Beer Café also specializes in bourbon, with nearly 50 different options available (you can do flights of 4 if you’d like to sample).

Some truly outstanding restaurants are scattered all over Kittery, including Black Birch, Anju and Lil’s Cafe in Kittery Foreside, the aforementioned When Pigs Fly (whose pizza is among the best in Maine) and the wonderful Robert’s Maine Grill on Route 1 for all kinds of seafood in a casual upscale setting. But sometimes you just want a burger and a beer (or a hot dog and a beer, or a lobster roll and a beer) and for that, it’s tough to beat the Maine Beer Café, a little-known local pub that makes it that much more difficult to decide where to eat when spending some time in this little pocket of Maine just an hour away from Boston.

Maine Beer Cafe, 439 US-1 (Suite #1), Kittery, ME, 03904. mainebeercafe.com.

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Fri, Mar 08 2024 08:56:52 PM
Grab a bite and see a show in a Mass. tavern that dates to 1740 https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/bull-run-bar-restaurant-shirley-massachusetts/3169740/ 3169740 post 9325780 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/02/bull-run-review-shirley-mass.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all The immediate Boston area can get pretty congested, but once you head west of Boston (and especially past Interstate 495), the landscape begins to change quite a bit, from busy city streets to leafy suburbs to wide open spaces where homes and streetlights are few and far between.

And you really don’t have to go far to get a taste of the rural life – some towns in north-central Massachusetts have fewer than 10,000 people and very little commercial development, including the blink-and-you-miss-it community of Shirley.

Tucked away in a hilly area just north of Route 2 and less than 10 miles west of I-495, this tiny town is mostly wooded, and popular with both bikers and motorcyclists, thanks to the mostly empty and winding roads found here, including a particularly quiet stretch of Route 2A that heads toward Ayer to the east and Lunenburg to the west.

Shirley, like many other towns in the state, also has quite a bit of history. It was settled in the early 1700s and has a number of structures from the 18th and 19th centuries, including within a couple of charming historic districts.

One very old building can be found along Route 2A in the northern part of the community: a former tavern and inn that’s home to a restaurant, bar and entertainment venue that has about as much charm as any dining spot in the entire state. The Bull Run seems to remain a bit of a hidden gem, known mainly to locals, music lovers and those in the know.

Residing in a structure that dates all the way back to 1740, the Bull Run sits along the side of a mostly wooded section of Route 2A not all that far from the Lunenburg line. Its building has the look of an old carriage house, and this stretch of Route 2A was indeed part of a carriage route back in the 19th century.

The color of the exterior is the type of faded red found all over New England and is often used for barns throughout the region. The two chimneys emanating from the roof add to its colonial look, while a giant fake bull sits above the front entrance area, adding a little charming kitschiness to the place.

Behind the Bull Run are a couple of parking areas, and it’s almost worth parking in the far lot just for the short ride which will take you through a classic New England covered bridge that goes over a little brook that’s lit up at night.

The Bull Run looks pretty large from the outside, and it feels even bigger inside, though much of the space is used for private events, functions and the aforementioned live music. Entering the main floor from the front, you’ll see a tavern and dining area that is absolutely loaded with character, complete with a working fireplace, wooden beams, exposed brick, an old wooden floor and a piano that’s used for a more intimate version of live music than in the main concert hall (more on that in a bit).

The bar itself is so full of charm that it’s possible to forget about the rest of the place and just hang with a bite to eat and a drink while chatting with the bartenders. It is a perfect place to go on a rainy or snowy afternoon where you can warm up and soak in the old-fashioned atmosphere.

The tavern section may be something special in of itself, but there’s much more to the Bull Run, as it has several rooms on multiple floors. Three rooms can be found above the tavern and restaurant area and all are used for events and functions (one room is also used for live music) while two rooms lie underneath the main floor and are also used as event spaces.

The largest room — and the main space for concerts — is a short walk from the tavern and dining area on the main floor. This is where you’ll see some well-known local, regional and national acts playing everything from rock to blues to jazz to folk to country and more. The concert hall has its own menu, though people who come to the Bull Run for a show also have the option to dine in the tavern/restaurant area instead.

Speaking of food, the Bull Run offers an eclectic menu that leans toward farm-to-table, as many ingredients come from local businesses, including countless New England farms, and most of the food is scratch-made. The tavern dinner menu, which is available Wednesday through Sunday (the place is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays), includes a mix of pub grub, comfort food and New American fare with such popular items as Rhode Island-style fried calamari, cheddar and bacon tots, which are actually more like logs than tots, freshly baked warm pretzels with beer cheese, an aromatic truffled cheddar popcorn appetizer (which is a signature dish here), a juicy smoked cheddar burger on a brioche bun, a classic prime rib dinner which comes with a popover, grilled apple brine pork chops, a hearty chicken parmigiana plate with linguini, pizza with an array of toppings, a substantial reuben with housemade sauerkraut and an absolutely sinful maple walnut cake.

The concert menu at the Bull Run is, to an extent, a more condensed version of the tavern menu, though it has items not found on that menu such as pulled pork tacos and macaroni and cheese, and a brunch menu is offered on Sundays with lots of egg dishes along with chicken and waffles, French toast, pancakes and a number of options also found on the dinner and concert menus.

No matter where or when you dine at the place, the full bar should satisfy most people, with a beer list that includes options from some top New England breweries, while approximately 25 different wines are available as well, and some classic cocktails such as margaritas, old fashioneds, martinis, margaritas and sangria are also offered.

While the Bull Run may feel like it’s far, far away from Boston, it’s actually no more than an hour from the city (without traffic), and it’s a very scenic ride out there, especially if you stick mostly to Route 2A. And it really does feel like a destination spot where you can eat some good food, kick back with a drink or two, listen to some great live music and enjoy the rustic atmosphere throughout the place.

You may have some music lover friends who have told you about this spot, but for the most part it remains a bit of an unknown, especially to those in or near Boston.

Bull Run Restaurant, 215 Great Road (Route 2A), Shirley, MA, 01464. bullrunrestaurant.com

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Sat, Feb 24 2024 10:13:33 AM
A unique combo: A sports bar and Chinese restaurant in Mass. https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/quincy-mass-sports-bar-chinese-restaurant/3159211/ 3159211 post 9291489 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/02/the-china-sports-bar-restaurant-review.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all Let’s face it: Chinese-American fare can be the ultimate comfort food. The salty, greasy goodness goes perfectly with an alcoholic beverage, and some may see it as an ultra-casual and unpretentious type of shareable food not unlike tapas. That’s why so many people order it for takeout, spending a fun evening with friends and loved ones perhaps while watching sports or something else on TV.

You would also think that having such a night out at a drinking establishment would be every bit as much fun, but Chinese-American spots tend to fall into two categories: the little corner takeout spot where you order for pickup or delivery or the family-friendly restaurant with large tables where groups can share endless plates of food in a quiet, comfortable space.

Yes, some of these restaurants do include bar areas where people can sit and grab a bite to eat and a drink, but they tend not to be the centerpieces of the places. This is why The China Restaurant & Sports Bar in the Wollaston section of Quincy is so unique, as it is a sports bar that happens to feature classic Chinese-American food while also offering some of the types of pub grub that you would expect at a watering hole.

Quincy has very quietly become one of the best places for dining out in the Greater Boston area. Its many neighborhoods feature restaurants offer cuisines of all types, including Italian, Latin American, Indian, classic American, New American, Mediterranean and, of course, lots of regional seafood, as you might expect in a coastal community.

And with each passing year, Quincy is known more and more for its almost overwhelming variety of East Asian and Southeast Asian dining spots, especially in the North Quincy and Wollaston neighborhoods, which abut each other and each of which has its own little commercial center.

Some of the region’s best Asian restaurants can be found in this area (which is only a few minutes from the Boston line, by the way), many in tiny hole in the wall-type spots serving everything from pho to vermicelli to shabu to hand-pulled noodles to ramen to sushi and so much more.

Interestingly enough, Chinese-American places aren’t really big in these neighborhoods, as authentic fare from nearly every region of China tends to be more the focus, perhaps because there is such a large population of Asian Americans and Asian immigrants living here. And because The China is one of the few Chinese-American options in the immediate area, the place tends to bring folks into the neighborhood who might not otherwise do so.

Unlike many of its neighbors, The China is anything but a hole in the wall. It’s a spacious spot and one of the largest on this stretch of Hancock Street.

The setup is pretty simple, with a roomy dining area to the right, another to the left and a long bar running along the back wall and cutting through nearly the entire space.

Even with the bar dominating the place and many televisions over the bar, The China isn’t a particularly loud spot. The carpeting and tables being spaced well apart helps keep the noise level manageable, and this isn’t a wild bar by any means — it’s a place for families, groups of friends and couples in the dining areas, while the bar often has people enjoying food and drink while watching whatever sports are on TV.

While Chinese-American fare is perhaps the main focus of the menu at The China, other options await as well, but many if not most diners indeed tend to come to this place for the old-school Chinese-American food.

The menu includes a number of combination plates, which is a great way to go if you would rather have your own meal rather than share dishes with others. Some highlights in this section include a decadent egg foo yong that is smothered in brown gravy, classic boneless spare ribs and chicken fingers, a deliciously savory lobster sauce, meaty chicken wings, crispy egg rolls, fried rice (offered with most combos) and lean BBQ pork strips.

A few dim sum options, such as shumai, pork buns and shrimp dumplings, are also available and complement the combo plates nicely, as do some of the standalone appetizers not found in the combos, such as Peking ravioli, beef teriyaki and crab rangoon.

Alternatively, you can order a pu pu platter if you’d rather share several Chinese-American apps with others at the table and/or order plates of chow mein, chop suey, chow yoke, lo mein and Singapore noodles.

The China has an extensive menu that goes well beyond Chinese-American options, with entire sections dedicated to Mandarin, Cantonese and Polynesian dishes and another focused on more authentic Chinese plates, such as clams in black bean sauce, ginger and scallion lobster, chicken and yu choy in garlic sauce and fried shrimp, squid and pork chop.

At the other end of the spectrum is the type of food that you might find in an old-fashioned Boston-area watering hole, and which helps make this a true sports bar. This part of the menu includes pizza (and some of the toppings are decidedly Chinese, such as kung pao chicken, boneless spare ribs and moo shi vegetable), burgers, mozzarella sticks, buffalo fingers, cheddar cheese jalapenos, fries and onion rings.

Because it serves some Polynesian dishes, you might expect The China to offer Polynesian drinks as well, and you would certainly be correct. Some favorites include mai tais, zombies, blue Hawaiians, scorpion bowls, head hunters and fog cutters, and some are served in rather interesting mugs (the head hunter is served in a large coconut, for instance).

Other drink options are available as well, including some draft and bottled beers and a few different wines, and this being a sports bar, plenty of spirits and liqueurs, though the Polynesian drinks really do tend to be front and center.

There really is no place in the Greater Boston area quite like The China. Is it an old-fashioned Chinese-American restaurant? Yes. A sports bar where you can watch a game or two on TV? Also yes. A more traditional Asian dining spot where you can have some dim sum or maybe some Hong Kong-style seafood? Once again, yes.

Basically, this is a multi-concept place in the best sense where there is truly something for everyone, all in an unpretentious, casual and affordable package.

One note: The China is open only for dinner, but one can hope that maybe someday they may add lunch service, because those combo plates are perfect for a noontime meal —they really aren’t so bad for supper either, especially if a night game featuring your favorite team is on the tube.

The China Restaurant & Sports Bar, 681 Hancock Street, Quincy, MA, 02170. chinasportsbar.com.

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Sat, Feb 10 2024 02:41:25 PM
Bar spotlight: A little bit of Key West in Boston's southern suburbs https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/weymouth-bar-johnny-konos-review/3147005/ 3147005 post 9251922 NECN https://media.necn.com/2024/01/johnny-konos-weymouth.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all The Florida Keys are known in part for their laid-back restaurants and bars where you can enjoy good food and drink, perhaps some reggae music or acoustic pop like Jimmy Buffett or Jack Johnson and magnificent sunsets over the ocean.

You can find a similar vibe at some dining and drinking spots along the New England coast — especially during the summer, when the ocean water isn’t freezing cold — and sure, you can find some places with island themes in Boston and other cities within the region, but did you know that there’s a Key West-themed bar hidden away in a residential area on the South Shore?

Several miles from the ocean, South Weymouth may seem an odd place for such a spot, but Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill is, well, a bit of an odd place in of itself, but one that locals absolutely love for its excellent food and its friendly vibe.

Weymouth is a pretty large community in area, with several distinct neighborhoods and villages, including Weymouth Landing (part of which lies within Braintree), East Weymouth, North Weymouth and South Weymouth. This last area is mostly cut off from the rest of town by Route 3.

Within South Weymouth is Columbian Square, an attractive little commercial district that is also legendary for its confusing free-for-all intersection that is fortunately in the process of being upgraded.

Johnny Kono’s sits a mile east of the square, at the fork where Park Avenue meets Ralph Talbot Street. You can also reach the bar via the Derby Street exit off Route 3, about two miles to the east. (If you come from Route 3, make sure you use your GPS, as Derby Street briefly becomes Oak Street before becoming Ralph Talbot Street where a turnoff to the right leads to another road called Oak Street and Ralph Talbot Street which inexplicably runs parallel to Ralph Talbot Street and Oak Street — don’t ask, and again, use your GPS.) If you somehow make it through Columbian Square or the Ralph Talbot Street/Oak Street confusion and arrive at Johnny Kono’s, you’ll notice that it sits next to a roadside ice cream/food stand called Jenna’s Drive-In, which was first opened by the daughter of the original owner of Johnny Kono’s. Although both places have since been sold to new owners, there’s still a food connection between the two (more on this in a bit).

The exterior of Johnny Kono’s looks a little like it could be a convenience store or a sub shop, but it is indeed a bar, and not the first drinking spot to call the space its home. A popular local watering hole called J.P. Greer’s Pub was there from the 1980s until 2016, when the changeover took place. Johnny Kono’s isn’t hugely different from the old J.P. Greer’s, though it does have a decidedly nautical/tropical bent. All kinds of knickknacks and memorabilia on the walls pay homage to the Florida Keys, while a surfboard hangs from the ceiling, doubling as a rack for glassware.

The space is small but comfortable, with a dining area that has both low-top and high-top tables on the right near the entrance, while a large bar that is spacious and comfortable enough to eat a meal at sits to the left (there are also drink rails set up for those who are simply looking to have a drink).

The jukebox constantly pumps out music, and depending on who is playing tunes, you might hear anything from Deep Purple to Lynyrd Skynyrd to yes, Bob Marley or Jack Johnson.

Local bars on the South Shore typically offer bar pizza, and while Johnny Kono’s is no exception, the menu here has much more to offer than just bar pies — and very good food at that.

The chili, for example, is one of the best in the area, with plenty of cheese covering a perfect blend of beef, beans, onions and jalapeno peppers. Burger options include a low-priced “Louis’ Lunch” version (a nod to the landmark eatery in New Haven) that is basically a grilled cheese sandwich that happens to have a five-ounce burger in it.

One of the most popular items here is the Clucker, which is a huge fried chicken sandwich that is also offered next door at Jenna’s and, again, while the two places are no longer owned by the original family members who opened both, Johnny Kono’s continues to keep this item on the menu.

Another option which can be found at both places is the Gobbler, a great alternative to the Clucker. It’s basically Thanksgiving in a bun with turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce and mayo.

While the aforementioned bar pizza may not quite reach the heights of such renowned spots as the Lynwood Cafe in Randolph or Cape Cod Cafe in Brockton, it is excellent in its own right, especially when ordered with laced/burnt edges, which add some caramelization to the edge of the crust.

An interesting pizza option is the Pillow Pie, which is their take on what some establishments call an Irish pizza, with whipped potatoes, scallions, sour cream and bacon.

Some of the best options at Johnny Kono’s are within the daily specials, including quahogs, loaded tots, fish tacos, popcorn chicken and fish and chips.

Don’t come to Johnny Kono’s expecting to choose from an endless array of local and regional beers, though the beer list has enough options to satisfy most. The bar does feel more like a place to order a shot or a mixed drink, and the shots tend to be of the “heavy pour” variety, as the bartenders are quite generous with the Irish whiskies, bourbons and the like.

And as is the case with the beer options, don’t expect extravagant cocktails, because this simply isn’t that kind of place; local hangouts like these are typically best for the basics such as gin and tonics, rum and cokes and other familiar drinks, so it’s best to keep things simple here when ordering adult beverages.

The weather in New England can be brutal in the winter, which is why a little escapism can be good for the soul, even if it’s just hanging out for an hour or two in a Florida-style watering hole such as Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill. You can gaze at the surfboards, hurricane lanterns, photos of deep-sea fishing and bumper stickers of faraway places while dining on tasty pub food and classic American fare, thinking of warmer locales while sitting in a cozy spot hidden away in the Boston suburbs.

Johnny Kono’s Bar & Grill, 269 Park Avenue, Weymouth, MA, 02190. johnnykonosbargrill.com

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Sat, Jan 27 2024 09:47:34 AM
Pizza and beer at a watering hole northwest of Boston around for 70+ years https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/ayer-mass-bar-pizza-nashoba-club/3128680/ 3128680 post 9193364 https://media.necn.com/2024/01/NECN-NashobaClub-20.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 South Shore bar pizza is all the rage these days.

It’s typically enjoyed in local drinking joints in the middle of residential neighborhoods south of Boston — and that shouldn’t come as a surprise, as pizza and beer in some ways represent the ultimate food/drink pairing.

Lost in the endless talk about bar pie is the fact that there are plenty of places to go for pizza and beer elsewhere in the region, and while bar pizza is more difficult to find west and north of Boston (or within Boston itself, for that matter), plenty of dining and drinking spots can be found with a similar vibe to the bar pizza joints without actually offering bar pizza.

One such place is a hidden gem less than an hour west of Boston called the Nashoba Club Pizza & Taproom, which wouldn’t be out of place in the heart of bar pizza country and which serves pizza that hints at South Shore bar pie, though it really is in a category of its own.

The Nashoba Club resides in the type of town that seems locale for old-fashioned restaurants and bars. Ayer has a rich history that stems from being a major railway hub in the 1800s and located next to a large military base, Fort Devens.

Like many old railroad towns, Ayer’s downtown area has a bit of a “wild west” look to it, with squat brick structures and false-front buildings, and yes, there are still railroad tracks abutting Main Street, at times only a few feet from the sidewalk. Running parallel to Main Street east of downtown is Central Street, which has a decidedly industrial look and is mostly hidden from sight, being used as a cut-through by locals who may be heading to neighboring Groton or Littleton.

This road is where you’ll find the Nashoba Club, just far enough away from the handful of restaurants and bars on Main Street to keep it a bit of a local secret.

From the outside, it’s tough to tell what kind of place the Nashoba Club is — its huge “PIZZA” sign out front makes it look like it could be little more than a sub shop. But look further up to the signs that say “Nashoba Club Pizza Restaurant” and “Proudly Serving the Area Since 1950” and you’ll start to get hints that this is by no means a takeout joint.

Climbing up the stairs under the building’s false front (and yes, this oddly appealing architectural style seems to be big in Ayer), you’ll see a cozy outdoor patio that’s used during the warmer months. Once inside, a narrow hallway brings you to the main dining room and bar to the right, while continuing straight ahead leads to a more private-feeling area out back that seems a little like a home entertainment room complete with bench seats, tables and a large TV for watching games.

The main section of the Nashoba Club includes seating for maybe 10 at the bar and a number of low-top tables in the dining section, including window seats that look out at the patio and Central Street just beyond. Exposed pipes and beams along the old wooden ceiling give the place a bit of an industrial feel, though the front area has vague ski lodge vibe to it as well, which all adds to the old-school charm of the space.

Pizza (and beer) may be the draw for many when it comes to the Nashoba Club, but its menu offers much more than just pizza, including delicious sandwiches, soups that change daily, salads and familiar pub grub options such as wings, tenders, burgers and tacos.

Pan pizza, heavy on the cheese

It really is tough to get beyond the pizza, however, as it is easily among the best place for it along the Route 2 corridor between the Boston suburbs and the Fitchburg/Leominster area, even if the pizza is tough to categorize.

Is it bar pizza? Italian style? Greek pizza? Gourmet?

Different people will tell you different things, but it does seem to lean just a little toward bar pie, especially since it’s a pan pizza whose cheese and sauce extend all the way to the edge of the crust (though at 13 inches, it is quite a bit bigger than a traditional bar pie).

One thing that everyone may agree on is that it is heavy on the cheese, and it comes out of the oven a bit floppy but quickly firms up as it cools, making for two different experiences in a way, as the last slice or two will taste quite a bit different from the first slices.

The pizzas here come in endless combinations, with such toppings as pepperoni, black olive, mushroom, hamburger, peppers and onions to name a few. Several sauce options can be ordered as well, including ranch, buffalo, alfredo and BBQ.

You can also order specialty pizzas, and some are quite unusual, such as a pickle and ranch pie, a Korean fried chicken pizza and even a pizza with a blueberry base.

What to drink

Local watering holes often seem to focus on mass-market beers, but the Nashoba Club has such an impressive list of brews that it could almost be seen as a beer bar.

Local and regional beers rule the roost here, including options from Dirigible, Bull Spit, Moon Hill, Wachusett, Berkshire, Devil’s Purse, Bissell Brothers, Fiddlehead and Foam, and a number of Nashoba Club-branded beers are offered as well.

If it’s too tough to choose among all the options, flights are also available. For those who aren’t into craft brews, you can certainly order Bud, Miller and Coors here, and wine, cocktails and spirits are served as well.

Nashoba Club Pizza & Taproom has an instantly familiar feel to it if you’re a fan of unpretentious roadside restaurants and bars, and it has a similar vibe to some beloved joints that are no longer with us, including Willow Pond, a Concord institution that closed back in the late 1990s and was subsequently demolished.

Let’s hope that the Nashoba Club doesn’t suffer a similar fate anytime soon, as it’s the type of throwback spot that’s more and more difficult to find with each passing year.

Nashoba Club Pizza & Taproom, 14 Central Avenue, Ayer, MA, 01432. nashobaclubpizza.com

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Fri, Jan 05 2024 05:19:39 PM
A classic diner and country store hidden in a Vt. clapboard house https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/a-classic-diner-and-country-store-hidden-in-a-vt-clapboard-house/3116027/ 3116027 post 9152976 https://media.necn.com/2023/12/NECN-MapleLeafDiner-3.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Vermont can be a magical place in the wintertime. The utter silence broken only by the crunch of snow under the feet; the sweet smell of woodsmoke in the crisp, clean air of a town more than 1,000 feet above sea level; mountains in every direction, including some with ski slopes enticing lovers of winter sports; a homey diner serving heaps of comfort food including breakfast dishes with tasty local maple syrup.

This could certainly describe many spots in the Green Mountain State, but it fits the little town of Londonderry to a T, and this laid-back southern Vermont community often gets overlooked by tourists in favor of such better-known towns nearby as Manchester, Weston and Grafton, which in some ways gives it more of a “real” Vermont feel to it.

And in case you were wondering, the diner here is truly something special. Maple Leaf Diner happens to be a local favorite that also caters to visitors to this beautiful region who are looking for a taste of the Vermont of yesteryear.

There aren’t many dining options in Londonderry’s section of Vermont. Even in the well-known villages like Grafton and Weston, there are two or three restaurants each – while other nearby towns such as Belmont and Wardsboro have no restaurants at all.

Londonderry does have a handful of dining spots, including the Maple Leaf Diner, a place that feels like a sort of community center, especially since the owners also run an attached country store called Mike and Tammy’s Main Street Market and Deli, which sells everyday goods along with a variety of food items and local beers.

The restaurant doesn’t have the look of your classic diner, as it’s not in a train-like dining car or a lunch wagon. Instead, it resides in the type of weathered old clapboard structure found in so many small Vermont villages.

In fact, if it weren’t for its inconspicuous sign along the road, it might be tough to figure out whether this is actually someone’s home, especially considering that the sign for the store is also pretty understated. Then again, Londonderry is not a flashy resort town, so the diner and shop fit in perfectly among the other little businesses that line Route 100 and 11 in the center of town.

While it may not look like a traditional diner from the outside, inside, the Maple Leaf has the look and feel of a classic one, with a counter and seats on the left side and comfortable booths along the right wall, facing the street.

Like any good diner, food is prepared behind the counter here, and a well-worn hood vent dominates the space, while a whiteboard on the back wall shows the specials of the day including baked goods, soups and meals.

The front door (which is technically a side door) opens up right by the counter and the booths, so on a winter day you may feel a gust of cold air whenever someone walks in or out, though with it comes that unforgettable smell of woodsmoke coming from nearby homes, which makes the brief blast worth it. On the far end of the diner’s single room is a short walkway that opens up into the store, so patrons can wander into the shop without having to go back outside.

It’s pretty tough to find an old-school diner that serves deliciously hearty food, though some are better than others, and the Maple Leaf serves up the kind of dishes that are everything you want from a diner: freshly-made, piping hot meals that stick to your ribs without putting a dent in your wallet.

This is a breakfast and lunch spot only, and the breakfast dishes include stacks of pancakes or French toast with real, local maple syrup; plates of eggs with bacon, home fries and toast; and a biscuit with eggs and home fries all smothered in savory sausage gravy, while corned beef hash, eggs Benedict, omelettes, breakfast sandwiches and more are also offered.

A dish that straddles the line between breakfast and lunch is a particularly decadent version of the classic Monte Cristo, with ham, turkey and Swiss cheese stuffed into two pieces of French toast and served with maple syrup, and it comes with a pile of home fries so big that it’s unlikely you’ll finish them all.

Some of the lunch items offered include a trio of outstanding open face sandwiches — turkey, roast beef and cheeseburger — and the rich brown gravy used on the sandwiches (and the fries if you wish) is so tasty that it might keep you from looking at the rest of the menu. But there are other options to look at, including a meatloaf plate, pot roast, a shrimp basket, club sandwiches, hot dogs, tuna melts, grilled cheese with bacon and a tomato and sides such as an absolutely sinful plate of gravy cheese fries and a very old-school plate of fried mushrooms with ranch dressing.

Drinks include some retro drinks such as sarsaparilla and cream soda.

After dining at the Maple Leaf, stepping next door into Mike and Tammy’s will give you the option to buy some desserts to go, including homemade doughnuts and pies, but there’s much more than dessert here. You can also stock up on soups, meat, bread and so much more, and this being Vermont, you may just find some highly coveted beers sitting in the refrigerated cases at the far end of the place.

While the occasional arrival of legendary beers from Stowe’s Alchemist Brewery Heady Topper and Focal Banger to Boston-area stores can often lead to stampedes causing them to sell out in the blink of an eye, there’s a good chance you’ll find those beers (and other seemingly impossible-to-find Vermont brews) quietly sitting in the cases here without a mad rush, since regular distribution of Vermont’s award-winning beers throughout the state make them so much easier to find.

With ski season ramping up, Londonderry will start seeing its fair share of visitors, thanks to so many downhill ski areas nearby, including Magic Mountain right down the street, along with such popular spots as Stratton, Bromley, Okemo and, a bit further out, Mt. Snow and Killington (and plenty of places for cross-country skiers and snowshoers nearby as well). But Londonderry doesn’t see the crowds that ski towns such as Ludlow, Manchester and Wilmington/West Dover get, so it’s a good place to look at if you’re into winter sports but also want a bit of peace and quiet.

And right in the middle of town is this wonderful diner which is loved by locals and skiers alike and is a perfect place to go for a classic Vermont experience in a particularly scenic and unspoiled section of New England.

Maple Leaf Diner, 1846 N Main Street, Londonderry, VT, 05148. [No website.]

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Sat, Dec 16 2023 03:12:53 PM
This former NH train station now houses a restaurant, bar, brewery, inn and more https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/nh-woodstock-station-inn-brewery-review/3105034/ 3105034 post 9116677 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/12/woodstock-station-restaurant-hotel-brewery.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 New Hampshire’s White Mountains are home to an interesting variety of resort communities, from the slow-paced, self-contained village of Waterville Valley to Jackson’s traditional New England charm to the bustling commercial stretches of North Conway and Lincoln.

When it comes to Lincoln and its neighbor just to the west, North Woodstock, they couldn’t be more different, making the twin towns a destination that has a little something for everyone.

Lincoln is basically a ski town for Loon Mountain, and its one main road (which turns into the Kancamagus Highway just east of town) is full of restaurants, bars, outdoor shops and a handful of strip malls and shopping centers. North Woodstock, on the other hand, has the feel of an outback town, with a compact and very walkable downtown area full of charming old wooden homes, a general store, interesting gift shops and a few options for dining and drinking.

And perhaps the anchor for North Woodstock’s town center is a renovated train station that is home to a restaurant, bar, brewery, function hall and inn — it’s a favorite among skiers, hikers, tourists and locals alike.

The Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery has the feel of a place that has been North Woodstock forever, though the building itself actually used to reside in Lincoln. It was a stop along a railroad line that was used for both lumber and tourism and dates all the way back to the 1800s. Part of the train station was moved to its current home in the 1980s and slowly but surely grew to the spacious, multi-use space of today.

Stepping inside, it becomes clear that the centerpoint of Woodstock Station is the main bar, which sits to the right of the brewery and gift shop by the main entrance. Its high ceiling, huge wooden beams, and knickknacks and memorabilia scattered throughout help make this one of the most interesting bar areas in the entire White Mountains.

While the main bar is a great place to grab a drink and a bite to eat, just across from the bar is another great space: the Porter Room, a comfortable area where families, larger groups and couples kick back and enjoy a meal with a bit more peace and quiet than the bar affords.

Back by the brewery and the gift shop are some little nooks and crannies where you’ll find some extra seating, and there is also a huge fireplace with couches facing it, which is a great spot to be on a cold winter night. A large function hall can be found on the second floor above the main bar and brewery, and yet another taproom/bar is located up there as well.

Beyond the main bar and the Porter Room are several more spaces for dining and drinking, including a cozy British-style pub called the Brew Pub which is accessed via a narrow brick walkway. A tiny dining area called the Stock Room is also in this area, and this room has the type of Adirondack-style hanging lights that you might find in a ski lodge.

A back dining room is further along, with plenty more seating for when the place is busy, and during the warmer months, the Dam Bar (and its patio) is a popular spot, with its use of reclaimed wood and downed beaver trees making it a fascinating place to have drink or two while doing some people-watching along North Woodstock’s main street.

Oh, and there is indeed an inn here, with 40 homey rooms found among the several buildings scattered about the property.

The menu at Woodstock Station is nearly as big as the place itself. The offerings lean toward classic American fare, pub grub and comfort food.

One of the best items is the chili, whose claim to fame is being the winner of a local chili cookoff and which gets some of its flavor from the brewery’s Red Rack amber ale; the dish can be ordered in a freshly baked bread bowl or a crock. Another favorite is a plate of rather large onion rings, which have a thick, beer-battered coating and are addictive enough to ruin your appetite even before your meal comes out.

It can be tough to get beyond the sandwich list – there are so many top choices, including a popular chicken salad melt with Swiss cheese and tomatoes; a sleep-inducing steak bomb with cheese, mushrooms, peppers and onions; a hearty meatloaf sandwich with caramelized onions and gravy; a blackened mahi sandwich which gets a bit of a kick from ginger; a classic club sandwich with turkey, ham and bacon; a lean but tasty bison burger which can be ordered with such sides as fries, rings, mashed potatoes or house-made chips; and a pulled pork sandwich that’s overflowing with meat and is served on a grilled brioche roll.

If you make it past the apps and sandwiches at Woodstock Station, more options await, including a truly outstanding flatbread pizza which can be topped with pepperoni, pulled pork or a Mediterranean mix (spinach, tomato, mushroom, black olives, feta). The ribs and macaroni and cheese are two other good picks – the former is topped with a “pig’s ear” barbecue sauce and the latter comes with short rib meat if you’d like. The teriyaki steak tips compete nicely with the ones served at some of the better Boston-area bars, while seafood fans might want to consider the sesame maple scallops or the panko-crusted fish and chips.

House-made desserts at Woodstock Station are pretty decadent. The tollhouse pie, sticky bun sundae and chocolate stout mousse are highlights.

The beers offered at Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery show that New Hampshire is no slouch when it comes to fermentation. They compete nicely with breweries in neighboring Vermont and Maine, which tend to get so much of the press.

A couple of favorites include the Pig’s Ear Brown Ale and Double Pig’s Ear Double Down Brown Ale – the double packs a real punch. The Red Rack Ale, from the award-willing chili, has some caramel notes much like Pig’s Ear does, and it gets some added sweetness from the malt used. The Autumn Ale Brew is particularly popular this time of year and is a good alternative to the countless pumpkin ales out there, focusing instead on cinnamon and apple flavors. Another good option as the weather continues to chill down is the Old Man Oatmeal Stout, as its smooth, silky texture and use of roasted malts makes for a perfect beer to drink while sitting by the roaring fire.

For those who want to try different options, the five-beer flights are the way to go, and you can also buy cans of beer to go on your way out.

North Woodstock is one of the most charming towns in the White Mountains, and visiting the Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery is a great way to get a feel for this beautiful part of New Hampshire. There are few places in the Whites that have the type of “destination” feel that this one has, especially after a great day of hitting the slopes or wandering through the woods, or simply getting off Interstate 93 to take a little break from being on the road.

Woodstock Station Inn & Brewery, 135 Main Street, North Woodstock, NH, 03262. woodstockinnbrewery.com

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Fri, Dec 01 2023 02:59:13 PM
A charming Irish pub fit for Boston (or Galway) out on Cape Cod https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/cape-cod-irish-pub-food-drink/3095060/ 3095060 post 9085434 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/11/bobby-byrnes.jpeg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 For New Englanders, it may seem like Irish pubs may be found in any part of the United States, but this isn’t exactly the case.

The Northeast has a rich Irish heritage with countless pubs found in Boston, New York City and many of the smaller cities and towns with high Irish-American populations. But outside of the region, other than in cities with deep Irish roots like Chicago, Philadelphia and Pittsburgh, it may be a bit more difficult to find these warm and welcoming spots where you can get a plate of fish and chips and a pint of Guinness.

Locally, many of the traditional-feeling Irish pubs tend to be found in neighborhoods, reflecting days past in which close-knit residential areas had their local watering holes that people would frequent on a regular basis, but some of the better pubs don’t fit into this pattern. One such spot is a quiet dining and drinking place in a Cape Cod shopping center called Bobby Byrne’s that has been a popular spot for food and drink since the 1970s.

The original location of Bobby Byrne’s in Mashpee may be in a shopping center, but this isn’t just any shopping center. Mashpee Commons actually has the feel of a New England village, with quirky architecture, tree-shaded roadways and a laid-back feel not often found at such mixed-use developments.

The complex actually started out as a more typical retail development when it was the New Seabury Shopping Center, but since the changeover in the 1980s, the complex has become a model for other lifestyle centers and, really, a destination of sorts for visitors to the Cape.

Bobby Byrne’s fits into Mashpee Commons quite nicely, with an attractive shingled exterior that looks a bit more like a traditional Cape Cod cottage than a well-worn Irish pub. But take one step into its bar area and you’ll be transported into the kind of atmosphere that you might expect at a neighborhood Irish pub in Boston (or for that matter, Dublin or Galway).

The left side of Bobby Byrne’s (which is where you’ll find the pub area) is dominated by a dark wooden L-shaped bar that’s a perfect spot to eat a meal and drink a beer or whiskey. There is plenty of other seating, with both booths and tables found within the space (a rail with a few stools is also set up in the bar area). The right side of the space has a bright and airy dining room good for families and larger groups – its high ceiling and chandeliers give it a much different, almost upscale feel compared to the bar side.

The food at Bobby Byrne’s includes a mix of comfort food and pub grub, dishes with Irish and New England influences and, as you might expect, foods typically found on the Cape and the South Coast of Massachusetts – there’s a hearty Portuguese kale soup with linguica, chorizo, potatoes, cabbage and beans; crispy fried calamari with cherry peppers and a garlic-basil aioli; and a classic Cape Cod Reuben with fried cod on marble rye along with Swiss cheese, coleslaw and Thousand Island dressing.

Seafood lovers will want to consider the traditional New England clam chowder, the fish and chips – which consist of firm pieces of cod coated in a non-greasy batter – and the sweet-tasting local sea scallops, which can be ordered baked or fried.

Some of the comfort food options are excellent at Bobby Byrnes, such as a messy but delicious grilled black pastrami sandwich on a bulkie roll, a sweat-inducing buffalo fried chicken sandwich also on a bulkie, a large plate of mac and cheese which can be ordered with buffalo or BBQ chicken bites and a mushroom and Swiss burger with mushrooms piled high on top of a half-pound of beef.

Irish pubs tend to be places to go for a smooth-tasting Irish whiskey and/or a pint of stout, and you can certainly order Jameson and Guinness here, but plenty of other options await, as the bar has a number of bourbon and scotches from which to choose. For beer lovers, you will also find a handful of local and regional brews, including from Cape Cod, Hog Island, Mighty Squirrel, Wormtown, Progression and Finback. But the well-worn bar top and dim lights does seem just perfect for a perfectly poured pint of Guinness, which in a sense becomes part of the dark and moody atmosphere itself.

Mashpee is a small town and Mashpee Commons is a bit of a drive from the ocean, so places like Bobby Byrne’s sometimes get overlooked. Locals sure know about it, however, as do shoppers to this pleasant little development, as it’s a perfect place to make a stop while taking a break from going in and out of all the interesting stores.

It may not be on a street corner in a residential neighborhood, but once you find yourself inside this dining and drinking spot, there’s a good chance that you’ll quickly forget that as you soak up the charm of this wonderful place. [Ed note: Another location of Bobby Byrne’s can be found in Hyannis.]

Bobby Byrne’s, 6 Central Square, Mashpee, MA, 02649. bobbybyrnes.com

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Sat, Nov 18 2023 06:00:00 AM
A dark, cozy North Shore pub with something for everyone https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/a-dark-cozy-north-shore-pub-with-something-for-everyone/3078461/ 3078461 post 9029939 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/10/the-grog-newburyport.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all It is often easy to overlook the old standby restaurants and bars, especially in communities that have seen the opening of many new dining and drinking spots that can tend to overshadow the longtime favorites.

Take The Grog in Newburyport, for example. Within walking distance of this North Shore institution are a number of interesting new options for dining out, including some right in the heart of the downtown area, which makes them particularly easy to find for visitors to this quaint old waterside city. And Newburyport certainly sees its fair share of tourists, as there is so much to see here – beautiful architecture, a gorgeous waterfront, interesting shops and museums and easy access to some of the most spectacular beaches and salt marshes in all of Massachusetts.

Just off State Street (the bustling main drag of Newburyport), The Grog is just hidden away enough to be easily missed by visitors, which makes it lean a bit more toward being a local hangout.

The Grog has quite a rich history. The place dates back more than 50 years, but its roots go back much earlier than that. Its space on Middle Street has welcomed folks looking for food and drink since around the time of the Civil War, and it became home to a restaurant called the Pilot House after the repeal of Prohibition in the 1930s. It was turned into The Grog in 1969.

Like Newburyport itself, the restaurant oozes character, with plenty of dark wood, creaky floors and old-fashioned lights giving a snug, lived-in feel that newer dining and drinking spots simply can’t replicate, no matter how hard they try.

Most of the activity takes place on the ground floor, which includes a cozy bar and multiple dining areas, but The Grog is actually a multi-story spot. Its upper floors are used for functions and events, while its basement has been known for live music, though the pandemic put that on hold and it is not known when (or if) music might return.

It is said that the word “grog” comes from a rum and water drink enjoyed by the British navy in the 1700s, and The Grog indeed has the feel of an old English pub. The menu tends to lean a little more toward classic American fare than British, though, and many of the dishes have regional and global influences as well, which allows it to offer a bit of something for everyone.

There are some real standouts on the menu here, including a meaty chili made using a “famous” recipe that’s easily among the best chilis found anywhere in eastern Massachusetts; an award-winning “Thomas” burger that includes a juicy grilled half-pound of Angus beef on an English muffin; a traditional New England clam chowder that has a creamy, buttery broth and gets its thickness from added potatoes; a wonderful oven-baked burrito with chicken, black beans, jack cheese and three different types of salsa; a New England-style bouillabaisse with mussels, salmon, haddock and swordfish in the stew; and British-style fish and chips with a crunchy beer-battered fresh local haddock.

At its heart, The Grog seems more like a pub than a restaurant, and its beverage options (and often-bustling bar scene) reflect this in a way. The beer list has more than 30 choices, including a number of local and regional options from such breweries as Newburyport Brewing, RiverWalk, Widowmaker, Deciduous, Ipswich Ale, Mast Landing, Smuttynose and Rockport Brewing, to name a few. Approximately 15 to 20 wine options are also available at The Grog, many of which come from the West Coast, and included is a rotating list of white wines. Cocktails are particularly popular here, and martinis and margaritas seem to be the biggest sellers, though you can also order a dark and stormy, a bloody mary and any number of other mixed drinks along with a wide variety of spirits from which to choose.

The Grog is one of those spots that has been around for so long that it is sometimes easy to totally forget about, which is a bit of a shame – it’s a special spot that feels instantly familiar even upon returning after many years away.

So many of these iconic restaurants and bars have gone away over recent times, becoming fewer and far between with each passing year, so it’s perhaps a good reminder to get back to such comfortable old haunts as The Grog while they are still around (and The Grog will hopefully be around for a long time to come). For those who haven’t yet been, yes, you can find some marvelous new dining and drinking spots in Newburyport, but to get a taste of a real favorite among the locals, this is one that’s really tough to beat.

The Grog, 13 Middle Street, Newburyport, MA, 01950. thegrog.com

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Sun, Oct 29 2023 07:24:11 PM
First Look: New Mass. airport restaurant debuts — not where you might think https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/stow-mass-airport-restaurant-fourth-field/3066976/ 3066976 post 8986934 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/10/stow-airport-restaurant.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 Although it has gotten better, “airport food” often brings up thoughts of a quick bite and a drink while waiting for a flight, often to either supplement the food served on flights or to avoid airplane food altogether.

Locally, it’s Logan airport that usually comes to mind, including its variety of restaurants and bars (and again, the choices are much better than in days past). But did you know that some of the smaller airports and airfields in the region also have interesting dining options?

Taso’s Euro Cafe at Norwood airport comes to mind for its excellent Greek fare, and, until recently, Nancy’s Airfield Cafe at Minute Man Air Field in Stow. But Nancy’s closed this spring as its owner retired, and the space was empty – until a new restaurant called Fourth & Field recently debuted there. And much like its predecessor, the dining spot focuses on farm-to-table comfort food.

Much like Norwood airport and some of the other small airports and airfields in the area, Minute Man Air Field is so hidden away that you might never know it’s even there unless you get lost while driving the narrow, winding lanes of Stow. Tucked in a wooded area about midway between Route 117 and Route 111 and just south of the Boxborough line, the airfield consists of two runways, a number of small planes, a few helicopters and a handful of businesses, including Fourth & Field.

If you’re used to flying out of Logan, the tiny size of Minute Man may shock you a little, as the airfield is less than 300 acres in size and the shorter runway is just a bit more than 1/3 of a mile long. (For comparison, the longest runway at Logan is nearly 2 miles in length.)

Upon entering Minute Man Air Field, it can be difficult to figure out which building houses Fourth & Field, as the structures are rather nondescript from the outside and look geared specifically toward flying and little else. But the squat structure sitting toward the back of the parking lot is indeed home to the restaurant, and one that’s pretty comfortable overall.

Diners can choose from a couple of seating areas. The front room has an almost homey feel to it, with attractive hanging lights at the small bar which includes several seats besides high-top and low-top tables. For those who love the thrill of watching planes take off and land, the side room is the place to be – it looks out toward the runways, and this long, narrow room lit by large windows along the outer wall has the feel of an enclosed porch.

An initial visit to Fourth & Field, which first opened in September, took place on a Sunday which – at the time of this writing – features brunch and brunch only that day. Wednesdays and Thursdays are dinner-only for now, while Fridays and Saturdays include both lunch and dinner service. Based on the brunch offerings, it seems that Sundays should become popular days for the place, as the options are very impressive and lean just a bit toward upscale rather than greasy spoon brunches or breakfasts.

One of the highlights is the Nana Betty’s Muffin Board, which consists of deliciously fresh English muffins, soft herbed butter, a peanut butter spread, jam and fresh fruit. The French toast flight is equally good, with maple syrup, bourbon syrup and a berry syrup included, and fresh fruit on top of the toast.

The brunch offerings also include chicken and waffles, but on this visit, the waffle maker was on the fritz, so the dish became chicken and pancakes; the pancakes were a wonderful substitute while the chicken tenders had a light crunchy batter with little in the way of grease.

Pretty substantial breakfast sandwiches are also available at brunch, and they can be ordered with sausage, bacon or ham. For those who love a classic breakfast plate, you can order one with eggs, home fries, toast and a choice of bacon, sausage or corned beef hash, the latter of which is heavy on the corned beef and relatively light on onions.

Other brunch menu items at Fourth & Field that sound interesting and will need to be tried on future visits include a charcuterie board with three cheeses; a smoked salmon platter with bagels, veggies and dill cream cheese; breakfast burgers; mushroom burgers; and a cranberry chicken salad.

By the way, Fourth & Field has a full liquor license and an array of cocktail and wine options. A few local beers can be ordered and the cocktails include allspice toddies and apple-maple mules, both of which are perfect for a blustery fall day at the airfield.

When Nancy’s Airfield Cafe closed earlier this year, there was some concern about what might be coming to its space, but based on a first visit to it successor, it seems that there isn’t any need to worry – Fourth & Field appears to continue the tradition of tasty, locally sourced, freshly made food in a rather unique space and location.

Airport restaurants tend not to be destination spots, but this new eatery has all the makings of such a place, at least based on early impressions.

Fourth & Field, 302 Boxboro Road, Stow, MA, 01775. fourthandfield.com

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Fri, Oct 13 2023 04:07:44 PM
Old-school Italian at a massive restaurant on a pond off a side street https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/cranston-ri-twin-oaks-restaurant-review/3057645/ 3057645 post 8948469 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/09/twin-oaks.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 If you read through websites that reminisce about long-closed restaurants in the Greater Boston area and elsewhere in New England, you’ll inevitably see references to a certain type of dining spot that continues to disappear from the local landscape: the multi-room family-friendly restaurants that were often seen as destination spots.

Some well-known names tossed about in such discussions include Hilltop Steak House and Weylu’s in Saugus, Anthony’s Pier 4 and Jimmy’s Harborside on the South Boston waterfront, Christo’s in Brockton (which now has a much smaller location in Whitman), Phillips Old Colony House in Dorchester and Benjamin’s in Taunton.

Some of these old-fashioned places do remain. One of the most obvious examples is Kowloon in Saugus, though even it is planning to be reborn in a much smaller space at some point in time. Others, like the Village Restaurant in Essex and the Eagle Brook Saloon in Norfolk, are facing uncertain futures, with the former recently closing down while the latter is up for sale.

There is one such spot that continues to thrive, however, and Twin Oaks Restaurant in Cranston, Rhode Island, is, oddly enough, both a hidden gem and an institution of sorts – it sits at the end of a residential street, helping make it a regular spot mainly for locals and those in the know.

For those who live in or near Boston, Twin Oaks really isn’t that far away. If there’s no traffic, it takes just over a half hour from where I-95 splits off from Route 128 and I-93 in Canton. The restaurant is only three or four minutes off I-95 via Route 10 and Pleasant Street, the latter of which looks like your typical suburban side street; the single-family homes lining it give no hint as to what lies ahead.

The road eventually ends and opens up into a large parking lot. Just beyond it lies a long, squat brick building that looks like it could be a private social club that is indeed home to the restaurant.

From the lot, the grounds don’t look like much, but if you take a peek around the side of the building, you’ll see the small but beautiful Spectacle Pond, which forms a backdrop to Twin Oaks and makes for great views for some people sitting inside.

Twin Oaks dates all the way back to 1933, and while it certainly has an old-fashioned feel, its building is actually relatively new – a fire destroyed the original structure in 1980.

The interior of the restaurant feels vaguely like a mix of the old Hilltop Steak House and Anthony’s Pier 4 with its six separate dining rooms, wood paneling, photos of celebrities who’ve dined here and large tables and booths complete with vinyl seats that are perfect for groups and families. The rooms have names – much like the Hilltop – including the Twins Room, the Club Room, the Acorn Room and the Oak Lounge, while a patio with views of the water is set up during the warmer months. Taking a walk around the restaurant will give you an idea of just how massive the place is, with its total seating capacity somewhere around 650.

Approximately a third of the population of Cranston is Italian-American and its dining scene reflects that, with countless old-fashioned and modern Italian restaurants throughout the city. Twin Oaks is one of the places people go for old-school Italian-American fare. And this being Rhode Island, whose regional foods are legendary, especially among those who love seafood, the menu adds some extra twists, including an outstanding fried calamari plate with banana peppers soaking in a bowl of lemon sauce, Portuguese stuffed quahogs that have enough heat to make you sweat and tender fried local bay scallops served with tartar sauce.

The red sauce at Twin Oaks is not to be missed, as it has that deep, rich flavor that you come to expect at an Italian-American spot, and a good way to sample it is with a plate of house-made beef and pork meatballs smothered in the sauce. The eggplant parmesan also comes with plenty of sauce. It’s layered and stacked high, almost like lasagna. The chicken parm can be ordered as a half or full plate.

For those who want to go deeply old-school, Twin Oaks serves a traditional spaghetti and meatballs, or as an alternative that you might not see on too many menus these days, macaroni and meatballs.

A delicious special is the gnocchi Bolognese, which includes melt-in-your-mouth pillows of potato pasta in a thick sauce with chunks of beef. For meat lovers, the menu includes chopped sirloin, which is almost a prerequisite for old-fashioned family restaurants.

Twin Oaks also has a lot of steak options, along with broiled lamb chops, veal chops and pork chops. For those looking for a lighter meal, a variety of sandwiches are available, including a specialty Italian grinder with everything but the kitchen sink.

If you somehow have room for dessert, the options here are top notch, including a dense carrot cake, a minty grasshopper pie and a classic spumoni with claret sauce.

Plenty of beers and wines are offered at Twin Oaks, but the cocktails may be the way to go here, with Manhattan, martini, and negroni options all good bets. 

If you live in or around Boston, Twin Oaks will likely conjure up memories of restaurants past, and perhaps bring about a desire for such a dining spot to open locally. These days, however, it’s almost unheard of for such a place to open as a new restaurant, so we have to make do with what we have while hoping that these institutions don’t go the way of the Hilltops or the Jimmy’s Harborsides.

The short ride down I-95 to this enchanting spot is indeed a trip back in time, and one that may lead you to take more trips to the Ocean State.

Twin Oaks Restaurant, 100 Sabra Street, Cranston, RI, 02910. twinoaksrest.com

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Fri, Sep 29 2023 02:36:05 PM
Opa! Good times at a hidden outdoor patio on the Boston waterfront https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/outdoor-patio-committee-boston/3049695/ 3049695 post 8912751 https://media.necn.com/2023/09/NECN-CommitteePatio9.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 If you’ve lived in Boston for at least 15 years, you may remember the “old days” of the city’s Seaport District, whose sprawling parking lots, hulking industrial buildings, creaky wharves and piers and dusty, wild west-feeling commercial area toward the eastern edge gave it all a somewhat menacing, end-of-the-world vibe.

Starting around 2010, much of this waterfront area started seeing rapid development where the surface lots and old buildings were replaced by glitzy office towers and luxury residential complexes – though for a while, anyways, the actual community part of this developing neighborhood struggled to catch up as it was mostly devoid of restaurants, bars, stores and community facilities.

Today, the Seaport District is still in need of the latter, though a lot of options for food, drink and shopping have sprung up and parts of the area are indeed starting to feel a bit more like actual neighborhoods, including Fan Pier along the western edge by Fort Point Channel. And while much of Fan Pier leans toward trendy and chic, you can also find some laid-back and unpretentious places as well, including one of the most pleasant outdoor bars in the entire city which is part of a popular restaurant called Committee, though it almost feels like its own place in a way.

Committee first opened in 2015, quickly becoming a popular spot in part because, at that time, there still weren’t a ton of dining options in the Seaport District, and especially the Fan Pier area. The restaurant’s focus from the start has been on Mediterranean small plates (leaning toward Greek fare) along with cocktails, and its interior space is warm and welcoming, combining rustic and modern touches while also using wood that was recovered from Anthony’s Pier 4, a landmark restaurant that shuttered in 2013.

The inside space is indeed quite attractive and a nice escape from all the steel, glass and concrete that dominates the Seaport, but the vibe outdoors is much different, so much so that it really needs to be talked about separately.

While Committee’s address is technically Northern Avenue, an increasingly bustling road lined with skyscrapers and looking not unlike some streets in the nearby Financial District, the outdoor section of the restaurant sits along the much quieter Fan Pier Boulevard. Because this road doesn’t really go anywhere and basically peters out at the water, it gets relatively little traffic, so the patio is a quiet oasis that also gets some extra privacy from its location within a covered walkway with thick columns; an abundance of planters adds some attractive greenery.

The centerpiece of the patio is a bar that includes several seats and is backed by beautiful wooden shelves that display a variety of spirits and some knick-knacks like vases and artwork. To the left of the bar are a handful of low-top tables that extend toward Northern Avenue and to the right are some high-tops as well as a side entrance to the interior of Committee.

Not everyone likes to sit at a bar to eat (or drink), preferring tables where they can face their fellow diners and have a bit of room to spread out, but the outdoor bar at Committee may change some minds, in part because it’s such an intimate little spot where you can chat with the folks behind the bar, who are more than happy to do so, especially when the patio isn’t busy.

Sitting at the bar also allows you to peruse the aforementioned bottles of alcohol sitting on the shelves, and this being an ouzeri (loosely defined as a Greek tavern that serves ouzo and lighter fare), it is almost a must to order a glass.

Ouza is a beloved anise-flavored liqueur that is often considered the national drink of Greece. It’s a little like a lighter version of sambuca, and like that popular Italian drink, it is usually ordered as an aperitif to begin a meal.

In a place such as Committee which focuses on meze (a style of dining somewhat similar to tapas, where small plates are shared), ordering ouzo is a perfect complement to the food on the menu. Committee has a few options for ouzo, including Ouzo Barbayanni, Ouzo of Plomari and Ouzo Giokarini.

If you want to expand beyond ouzo, Committee also offers tsipouro, a brandy that is similar to Italian grappa, and mastiha, which is made with resin, imparting a piney taste. Plenty of beer, wine and cocktail options are available here as well, and the wine list is quite extensive and includes a number of wines from Greece.

The full dinner menu for Committee is offered on its patio, though the more-casual vibe outside makes it the perfect place for snacks and, on weekends, brunch items, and there is certainly some overlap between the dinner and brunch menus. Highlights include a simple but delicious sesame-crusted piece of feta drizzled with Greek honey; warm Peloponnese olives with orange zest, garlic and a mix of herbs and spices; the brunch-only breakfast gyro, which tastes as good as it looks, combining scrambled eggs, grilled halloumi, Greek sausage and roasted red pepper sauce all placed in pita and served with home fries; the spanakopita grilled cheese and tomato soup, which is another brunch-only item and is a wonderful take on this classic comfort food dish, including feta cheese and sourdough; a plate of fried calamari with a velvety caper leaf tartare and banana peppers adding just a bit of heat; and a hearty onion and tomato pie with manouri, a mild cheese that is a little like a less salty and creamier version of feta.

Too many people tend to write off the Seaport District as a soulless place with little in the way of interesting dining and drinking spots, but there are actually a wide variety of good options here, including Committee and its friendly and inviting patio. Assuming that there are several more weeks of decent weather before the cold, dark days of late fall and winter set in, there is still plenty of time to check out this intriguing outdoor bar hidden away near the water.

Committee, 50 Northern Avenue, Boston, MA, 02210. committeeboston.com

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Fri, Sep 15 2023 03:52:10 PM
Dumpling heaven in a bustling marketplace in central Mass. https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/worcester-public-market-momo-restaurant-review/3042073/ 3042073 post 8882696 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/09/NECN-MomoPalace1.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 It wasn’t all that long ago that food courts in malls were about the only places where you could find multiple dining options within one space. While these indoor dining areas were often looked down on as where to get cheap food quick while doing some shopping, sometimes there would be a spot that was surprisingly good, so much so that the word would eventually get out about them.

The food court concept has evolved quite a bit in this country of late, with more and more Asian supermarkets featuring outstanding vendors, and supermarket chains such as Wegmans and Whole Foods occasionally hosting some real gems in their stores. And of course, modern (and often upscale) food halls are all the rage these days, including High Street Place, Time Out Market, and Hub Hall in the Boston area alone.

European-style indoor marketplaces have lately become interesting options as well, especially for those who may want to do a little non-food shopping while dining out but don’t want to deal with the crowds and hassles of malls. Boston Public Market, which first opened in 2015, is an obvious choice locally, but did you know that Worcester has a similar marketplace as well?

The Worcester Public Market may not be as well-known as the marketplace in Boston, but since debuting in the city’s booming Canal District in early 2020 (and yes, the pandemic did shut it down for a few months soon after it opened), the retail center has quickly garnered the attention of folks in Worcester and beyond for its top-quality eateries, including a Nepalese dining spot called Momo Palace that is the ultimate hidden gem, serving sublime dishes from an unassuming little food stand.

While the heart of downtown Worcester has been undergoing redevelopment of late and has gotten a little less “sleepy,” with the addition of restaurants, bars and shops, the Canal District, which is just to the southeast of downtown, is perhaps the hottest part of the city with renovated historic buildings home to businesses and residents alike and ease of walkability recalling some of the most interesting neighborhoods in Providence.

Two anchors of the Canal District are Polar Park, home to the Worcester Red Sox (or as most baseball fans call them, the WooSox), and the Worcester Public Market, which is a few hundred yards from the ballpark as the crow flies. The marketplace includes an array of vendors serving up everything from African food to baked goods to burgers to ice cream and gelato to juices and so much more. It also includes a wine shop and an outlet of Wachusett Brewery.

Right in the middle of the space sits Momo Palace, which, like its neighbors, lets people order their meals at the counter and grab a table nearby to wait for their food to be ready.

For those who are unfamiliar with momos, they are a type of dumpling found in Tibet and parts of South Asia, including Nepal. They tend to have a thick and chewy dough wrapper that typically has an attractive pleated design, giving the dumplings a unique look.

Momos are usually steamed, but they can also be deep fried as well, and Momo Palace has both versions. The menu here has a number of options and configurations focusing on momos, with the jhol momo (momos served in a spicy curry-style broth) a real highlight, especially when this soup-style dish is ordered with pork-filled dumplings — though the chicken- and veggie-filled momos are both excellent as well.

Another option that includes broth is the warm and comforting momos in chicken soup, which is brightened by a good amount of onions, and for those looking for something a bit simpler, you can also order a plate of steamed or fried momos that come with sauces of varying heat.

The steamed momos are quite juicy, almost to the point where they taste a bit like soup dumplings whether you order them in a broth or not.

Momo Palace has some other items beyond dishes with dumplings, including a Himalayan noodle soup that is usually served with either meat or veggies, though chicken can be added as well, while a good side dish option is the tornado fries, which are drizzled with a creamy and slightly spicy “boom boom” sauce.

Drinks include lemonade with a hint of chili, and the usual soda, water, and bottled tea options.

Worcester’s Canal District is increasingly being seen as a destination spot, and it will only get more and more interesting as additional businesses and attractions move in — and just in case you were wondering, there IS a canal here, but it’s currently buried, though there is hope that someday it may be uncovered once again.

Whether it happens or not remains to be seen, but either way, this little section of New England’s second-largest city is an interesting place to visit, and if you’re looking to grab some food while in the area, Momo Palace is a must for its tremendously tasty dishes that also won’t break the bank.

Momo Palace, 160 Green Street (Worcester Public Market), Worcester, MA, 01604. momopalace.com.

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Sun, Sep 03 2023 03:27:35 PM
Dinner in a treehouse: This leafy Mass. restaurant is becoming a destination https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/towne-tavern-treehouse-review/3030287/ 3030287 post 8833653 https://media.necn.com/2023/08/NECN-TowneTavernTreehouse6.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Spending time in a treehouse can be a mesmerizing experience, whether you’re a kid or just a kid at heart. There’s something special about reading a book, kicking back with friends or simply doing nothing but enjoy nature high above the ground and away from the rest of the world.

Treehouses aren’t only simple structures found in people’s backyards, however – you can vacation in ones in New England and beyond and, while not all that common, you may also be lucky enough to find a restaurant that has one where people can dine and drink. One such place happens to exist in the southeastern part of Massachusetts, and word is quickly starting to get out about Towne Tavern & Treehouse in Pembroke. It’s starting to morph from a local fave to more of a destination spot for people in the Boston area and other parts of the region.

Because Route 24 goes almost directly south of the Boston area to Fall River while Route 3 heads southeast toward the Cape, there are several towns south of Boston that are nowhere near any highways, including Whitman, Hanson and Halifax. Because of this, getting to these communities and others from the city can take a bit longer than you might think.

While a tiny piece of the northeast part of Pembroke brushes up against Route 3, the part where Towne Tavern & Treehouse can be found is on the other side of town near the Hanson border, so even though it’s only about 25 miles from downtown Boston, it feels much farther away, especially given the rural feel of the surrounding area. The west side of Pembroke, dotted with ponds, is quite scenic, and the restaurant itself is right on the edge of Furnace Pond, which has a beach and some waterside homes, and is a place where you might see pontoon boats or other watercraft meandering around on a lazy summer day.

Towne Tavern & Treehouse used to be home to a local watering hole called the Lucky Dawg Tavern & Grill, but its owners turned over the keys (and their treehouse) to the owners of the Towne Tavern & Tap in North Attleboro in the spring of 2022.

The new owners have made a number of upgrades to the site, which includes a restaurant and bar inside the main structure, an outdoor patio and bar out back with views of the water, Adirondack chairs and picnic tables near the water’s edge, a dock that boaters can use to get to the place and the treehouse, which has a number of tables with spectacular water views and a cozy semi-indoor bar in the middle that is well-protected from the elements.

And as great as the treehouse itself is, if it is packed and no seating is available, the outdoor area below it is also a great option, and one of the best ways to enjoy the space is to simply grab a drink, sit in an Adirondack chair and enjoy the breezes off the water.

If you’re sitting in a treehouse on a nice day, enjoying food and drink there almost seems like a bonus, so even basic pub grub and beer would probably be OK, but Towne Tavern’s food and drink options are impressive in their own right. Pembroke is in the heart of bar pizza country (Poopsie’s, on the other side of town, is a legendary spot for bar pies), so it’s almost expected for a place like Towne Tavern to offer it –they do have an excellent version that includes the particularly good hot honey pepperoni.

While bar pizza can certainly be considered an appetizer because of its relatively small size, some of the actual apps on the menu are also worth trying at the start of the meal, including a huge pretzel with mustard and cheese, a traditional New England clam chowder with oyster crackers, an old-school shrimp cocktail and wings with a sweet chili glaze.

Meals run the gamut from sandwiches to grill items to tacos to the aforementioned bar pizza, with some of the highlights including an Asian-inspired fried rice bowl with pan-fried chicken, veggies and garlic soy sauce, all topped with a fried egg; a chicken and hummus gyro which, like the rice bowl, is a fine option for those looking for a relatively healthy meal; a hearty plate of macaroni and cheese that meat lovers can order with slow-roasted prime rib; a delicious smash burger with two angus patties and the works, all in a grilled brioche bun; beer-battered fish tacos with a zesty cilantro crema; and marinated steak tips with whipped potatoes and charred asparagus (turkey tips are also on the menu).

Some local beers are offered at Towne Tavern, including options from Old Colony and Castle Island, and wine, spirits and cocktails are available as well, including a very popular flight of margaritas.

There is no place quite like Towne Tavern & Treehouse in the Boston area, and the place has become incredibly popular even though it hasn’t been around all that long, which leads to a couple of minor issues.

First, the treehouse can be very difficult to get into, with hour-long waits (and more) even on weeknights. If you go on, say, the middle of the afternoon on a Sunday, your chances of getting a table in the treehouse are much greater. (And remember, the tables at ground level are a wonderful choice as well.) Second, the parking situation is often a problem because the lot is small, though the restaurant does have free valet parking, which does help alleviate things.

Neither of these issues should deter you from heading to this unique dining and drinking spot, and even if you do have to wait a while for a table, there’s nothing wrong with sitting in a chair with drink in hand and staring at the water, realizing that the wait for a meal isn’t such a big deal after all.

Towne Tavern & Treehouse, 242 Mattakeesett Street, Pembroke, MA, 02359. townetavern.com/towne-tavern-tree-house.

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Sat, Aug 12 2023 07:33:34 PM
A meat lover's paradise, both butcher and restaurant, in small-town NH https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/tuckaway-tavern-review-raymond-nh/3021938/ 3021938 post 8784950 https://media.necn.com/2023/07/NECN-Tuckaway24.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 Back in the day, Hilltop Steak House in Saugus was the place to be for many meat eaters who needed to satisfy their cravings, and when it closed down in 2013, it left a bit of a void for casual, family-friendly places for red meat that wouldn’t break the bank.

And while there are a number of restaurants in the Greater Boston area and elsewhere in New England that remain good options — though not with the unique atmosphere of the Hilltop — perhaps no other dining spot does a better job of carrying the torch than a sprawling restaurant and butchery just over an hour north of Boston called the Tuckaway Tavern and Butchery, especially considering that, like the old Hilltop on Route 1 (and its handful of other locations throughout the region), it also features a meat market that people are willing to travel long distances for in order to stock up.

Unlike the original Hilltop Steak House, which resided on one of the busiest roads in the Greater Boston area (and whose giant cactus sign out front was a landmark unto itself), the Tuckaway Tavern is off the beaten path in the little town of Raymond, just off Route 101 about 15 miles east of Manchester and 20 miles west of the New Hampshire seacoast.

The restaurant is popular with locals, of course, and also outdoors lovers who stop by the place after a hike, bike or swim at the beautiful Pawtuckaway State Park a short distance to the north, while vacationers who summer at the many lakes and ponds in the region also frequent the place.

Those in the know in the Boston area and elsewhere often visit on the way back from the White Mountains or even drive up from the city solely to go to the restaurant and butcher shop, tossing coolers in the back to bring food home.

The Tuckaway Tavern can best be described as rustic, feeling a bit like a barn or a carriage house inside, and its multiple spaces aren’t all that different from that of the Hilltop, though on a smaller scale. Upon entering the place, you’ll find a large waiting area and host stand. Just beyond that is a small, wedge-like dining area with a few tables as well as an entrance to the meat market (which also has its own entrance/exit).

Continuing through the space, you’ll come to the main room, which has a distinct barnlike feel and includes a wraparound bar and a mix of booths, hi-tops, low-tops and counter seats. More seating can be found off to the side, and in the back is an airy room that feels like a seasonal porch and looks out at the woods beyond the restaurant.

The meat market itself is huge, with cases and displays that include steak tips, pork chops, sausage, chicken, seafood, burgers, salads, steaks, to-go meals, desserts and so much more. Another section of the market features a wide variety of beers, including a number of local options from New Hampshire breweries and plenty of choices from other New England states as well, with a nod toward Maine, which isn’t all that far away.

As you might expect, meat lovers will have a hard time deciding what to order at The Tuckaway Tavern, starting with excellent appetizers, some of which can be considered full meals, especially if you order a couple of them. A few highlights among the starters include rooster balls, which are shredded chicken mixed with cheese and buffalo sauce, rolled into balls and deep fried; a hearty roadhouse chili that is made with ground bison, pork belly and kielbasa along with roasted veggies and two different cheeses; and a savory poutine with handcut fries, cheese curds and gravy, and options for toppings that include braised beef, pulled pork or bacon.

It may not be best to load up too much on apps here, as the main courses tend to be rather large, enough so that you may take some home even if you don’t order anything else. The freshly ground black angus burgers are front and center here, receiving a number of awards through the years, and yes, they are certainly deserving of all the accolades.

Some of the better options among the burgers include the absolutely sinful Pigpile which consists of four layers of bacon, three layers of cheese and onion jam; the Two Pigs, One Cow, which is topped with BBQ pork, bacon and cheddar cheese; The Whole Tuckin’ Farm, which includes fried chicken, bacon, cheddar cheese and “tuck sauce” which is made with mayo, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and various seasonings.

One particularly good option which isn’t always offered is the poutine burger, which allows you to enjoy an app and an entree all in one fell swoop.

As good as the burgers are at The Tuckaway Tavern, there are a number of other items on the menu well worth considering, including their extraordinary steak tips. Some of the best tips in New England can be found in the Boston area at places like Newbridge Cafe in Chelsea and Floramo’s in Malden, but the ones at the Tuckaway are right up there as well, in part because the quality of the meat is so good but also because of the sublime marinade, which has a perfect balance of oil, vinegar and seasonings.

The thick-cut pork chops and various steaks should be considered if you have a big appetite. If your appetite is really big (or you’re looking to share), the butcher’s block is a terrific choice, with marinated chicken, steak tips and ribs.

A few old-school dishes include a wonderful macaroni and cheese that can also be purchased as a frozen to-go tray in the shop, a comforting meatloaf plate with sour cream gravy and fish and chips with a house-made tartar sauce.

If you somehow have room for dessert, you can choose from such decadent options as a s’more sundae or a pudding cake.

New England is full of destination restaurants where it’s perfectly fine to drive a long distance just for a meal, and the Tuckaway Tavern is certainly one of them. Its meat market gives people an additional excuse for hopping in the car and setting the GPS, as, depending on how much you stock up on, a trip to this unique spot could end up giving you days if not weeks of outstanding meals to cook at home.

It may not have the cachet of the Hilltop, but the Tuckaway is a bit of an institution in its own right, and one whose food may indeed make you forget about the legendary long-closed steakhouse on Route 1.

Tuckaway Tavern and Butchery, 58 Route 27, Raymond, NH, 03077. thetuckaway.com

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Fri, Jul 28 2023 05:14:44 PM
This under-the-radar South Shore brewer rivals the best in New England https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/vitamin-sea-weymouth-brewery-beer-review/3013908/ 3013908 post 8753240 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/07/vitamin-sea-brewery-weymouth.png?fit=300,169&quality=85&strip=all It was not all that long ago that Vermont was the place to go in New England for beer. Such award-winning breweries as the Alchemist, Lawson’s and Hill Farmstead have brought hordes of people to the Green Mountain State, where they would almost make a game out of searching for hard-to-find brews. 

Then Maine got into the act, with relative newcomers like Bissell Brothers and Maine Beer Company reaching the greatness of some of the Vermont breweries, while old guard places such as Allagash quietly continue to put out some of the best beers in the country. 

And now you’ll also find some top-notch beermakers in New Hampshire, Connecticut, Rhode Island and, yes, Massachusetts including nationally recognized brewers Tree House, Trillium, Notch and Jack’s Abby. 

All of the top New England breweries have become very well known, sometimes just for one beer — the legendary Heady Topper from the Alchemist comes to mind — but there are brewers in the Northeast that are much less known yet approach the quality of their more famous competitors. In the case of a humble little facility 20 minutes from downtown Boston, it may even surpass them. 

Is Vitamin Sea in Weymouth really that good? To locals and many beer geeks in the region, the answer is a very definite “yes.”

When Vitamin Sea debuted inearly 2019, it did so to little fanfare, as not too many knew about the brewer other than those who ran into them at beer festivals, and perhaps some locals in Hull where the business began out of a basement. 

The initial plan was actually to open a brewery in Hull, but the folks behind Vitamin Sea opted for the two-building Weymouth facility just off Route 53 (and around the corner from fellow brewer Barrel House Z) that it now calls home. One of the structures displays a wonderful mural that gives a nod to Weymouth’s seafaring roots, the other is a garage-like space where you’ll find the taproom. 

In the early days of the business, it appeared that Vitamin Sea might focus mainly on being a production house with the taproom almost an afterthought, but what was once a rather spartan space for the general public has slowly but surely morphed into a comfortable beer garden that includes a number of communal tables inside and a long, narrow and partially covered outdoor area, allowing patrons to sit outside even on rainy days. 

Like many breweries, Vitamin Sea has a rotating group of food trucks outside, and customers can also bring in their own food as well.

To some, Vitamin Sea is all about the New England IPAs, and there’s very good reason for this even though those who stick only to that style of beer are missing out on some other tremendous options (more on this in a bit). The hazy and fruity IPAs available here are as impressive as you’ll find anywhere, and unlike some others out there, they’re pretty easy to drink and aren’t all that filling, which means the second round will likely be every bit as satisfying as the first. 

Session-style NE IPAs tend to be great in the summer simply because they are so drinkable due to their lower alcohol content, and Vitamin Sea has some great ones, including Little Birdie, which has an ABV of 4.5%, while non-session options include the spectacular Double Summer, which has a notable citrus taste while also being one of those beers that sneaks up on you as it has nearly twice as much alcohol as Little Birdie. 

It should be noted that the beer list at Vitamin Sea is always changing, which means you may find other NE IPAs such as a similarly citrusy Alone and Adrift or a Southern California tribute beer called Hello from OB, though there are some one-and-done options such as Coastal Bomb, a solid brew that was a collaboration with the Boston-based meteorologist (and beer aficionado) Eric Fisher. If you like hoppier American IPAs, you may find one here depending on the offerings of the day, with Greetings From Weymouth being particularly satisfying.

But you don’t have to be a lover of New England IPAs to go to Vitamin Sea. The brewery also offers excellent takes on stouts, lagers, Belgian-style witbiers and hard seltzers, to name a few. But rivaling the NE IPAs in quality is a group of always-changing specialty/experimental brews that come under the “Sour Pipe Project” umbrella. 

These are fruited sours that are sometimes more smooth than sour, and some of them are so good that it’s a shame they aren’t available all the time. One highlight is the Sour Pipe Lychee, which has marshmallow, adding a sweet foaminess to the tropical flavor, while the tangerine marshmallow has a perfectly balanced mix of citrus and vanilla notes.

 You might also be lucky enough to try a blueberry pancake version that, well, is like a liquid version of blueberry pancakes, and a bright tasting limonata version is sometimes available as well. Other Sour Pipe options include ones made with coconut, pineapple, plums, strawberries, apricots and mango, and half the fun is showing up just to see what the latest Sour Pipe Project beers may be offered that day. 

For some beer lovers, the search for Vitamin Sea’s brews seems a bit like the old days when people would search far and wide for the Alchemist’s aforementioned Heady Topper or perhaps Hill Farmstead’s Edward or Lawson’s Sip of Sunshine. But more and more restaurants and bars are offering Vitamin Sea’s beers now — especially on the South Shore — so they aren’t all that difficult to find anymore, though if you want to buy cans, you can only get them at the brewery itself (at least for now). 

It may not have the name recognition of some of the best craft brewers in New England, but Vitamin Sea continues to gain a cult following for its near-perfect New England IPAs, its unique Sour Pipe options and pretty much all of its other beers as well — and by the way, if you don’t live on the South Shore, Vitamin Sea also has a beer garden set up in Cambridge’s Kendall Square until early October.

Vitamin Sea, 30 Moore Road, Weymouth, MA, 02189. vitaminseabrewing.com.

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Sun, Jul 16 2023 08:54:15 AM
This Boston icon is a portal to an older time — with pizza as great as ever https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/this-boston-icon-is-a-portal-to-an-older-time-with-pizza-as-great-as-ever/3007435/ 3007435 post 8727227 https://media.necn.com/2023/07/NECN-PleasantCafe25.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 It seems like with each passing year, more and more of Boston’s old-school restaurants and bars say goodbye.

There are a number of reasons for this. In some cases, it’s simply because the owners decide to retire; in other cases it’s due to redevelopment, rent increases or dwindling business. Whatever the reason, the bottom line is that the comfortable old neighborhood dining and drinking spots seem to be endangered.

That’s why it’s so refreshing to see a place like Roslindale’s Pleasant Cafe not just still open, but also seemingly thriving, especially on the back end (knock wood) of the pandemic which wreaked havoc on the local restaurant scene over the past three years.

There are very few places within Boston city limits that deserve the “iconic” label (J.J. Foley’s in the South End, Santarpio’s in East Boston and Caffe Vittoria and Pizzeria Regina in the North End are a few others) and this longtime local spot certainly does warrant that badge of honor.

While much of the dining scene in Roslindale centers around Roslindale Village (or as some call it, Rozzie Square), a few other restaurants and bars reside on the outskirts of the neighborhood, including the Pleasant Cafe, which sits high above the village — with downtown Boston in the distance — near the West Roxbury line. The area feels a bit more suburban than much of the rest of Boston, especially as you continue through West Roxbury toward Dedham.

Because this section of the city is a bit less densely populated, it isn’t uncommon for businesses here to have their own parking lot, and the Pleasant Cafe’s rather large lot is just across the street. Crossing the street to the restaurant is a classic old Boston experience unto itself, with the restaurant’s vintage neon sign and frosted glass welcoming diners like it has been doing since the 1930s.

The interior of the Pleasant Cafe is every bit as charming as its exterior, with a setup that used to be much more common many years ago. The place actually consists of two separate spaces — each with its own entrance — with a long and narrow wood-paneled dining room to the left that includes two rows of booths and a similarly long and narrow bar area to the right that includes the type of wooden bar top that seems right out of a black and white movie. The bar section has a partition that subdivides it into two spaces, one with more seating.

The dining room and the bar area are connected by a couple of doorways, and the dining section is arguably the busier space (depending on what time you go) where you’ll typically see parents and their children, groups of friends and couples.

And the service at the Pleasant Cafe is an experience in itself. The people who work here are typically friendly, funny and sassy, which brings to mind such places as Newbridge Cafe in Chelsea and Greg’s in Watertown, two other can’t-miss neighborhood joints in the area.

The Pleasant Cafe, like so many neighborhood spots around Boston, has a menu that focuses at least in part on Italian-American fare. Here you’ll find such hearty options as stuffed mushrooms, toasted ravioli, lasagna and meatballs, prime rib (which is typically a traditional Saturday night dish at places like these), baked stuffed shrimp, chicken parmigiana, ziti with Italian sausage, a hamburg steak dinner, roast loin of pork and pizza.

The pizza here, by the way, is often included on “best of” lists in Boston, but beyond that, the pies, which lean a bit toward foldable thin-crust New York-style with just a hint of South Shore bar pizza mixed in, easily go up against some of the best pizza in all of New England, coming close to the heights of New Haven pizza — which is saying a lot.

Some may look down on the drinks list at the Pleasant Cafe because, well, it includes simple cocktails that go back many years, not the type that you might see on “retro” cocktail lists at some of the newer and trendier places. When, for instance, is the last time you saw a Tootsie Roll offered? A Galliano Stinger? A Brave Bull? A California Root Beer?

You will find these and approximately 75 other cocktails from the wayback machine on the menu, and you may find yourself frantically Googling some of the drinks on the list to find out exactly what they are before the server arrives. The Pleasant Cafe also offers a handful of beers and wines along with soft drinks, but the cocktail list on the back of the menu is, for many, one of the highlights of any meal here.

The Pleasant Cafe is a little like an old, comfortable shoe — it feels instantly familiar and no matter how hard others may try, they’ll never truly be able to match it. When Doyle’s Cafe down the street in Jamaica Plain closed in 2019, the city of Boston was hit with an immeasurable loss, but this landmark Rozzie spot took up the slack for many with its similar (though lower key) vibe, and while Doyle’s may eventually return, no one really knows if it’ll have the same feel as it did before.

In the meantime, The Pleasant Cafe continues puttering along, welcoming both regulars and newcomers to its warm and homey digs.

Pleasant Cafe, 4515 Washington Street, Roslindale, MA, 02131. pleasantcafe.com

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Tue, Jul 04 2023 03:21:51 PM
A Classic Seafood Joint for Summer Eating Worthy of a Trip From Boston https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/seafood-shack-review-lobster-hut/2987085/ 2987085 post 8638519 Marc Hurwitz https://media.necn.com/2023/05/NECN-LobsterHut10.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 In some parts of New England, diners are pretty easy to come by.

Worcester is one of the first places that comes to mind, with its classic railroad car-style diners (the Worcester Lunch Car Company manufactured these types of diners in the past century). Connecticut has a multitude of diners as well, much like neighboring New York (and New Jersey just beyond, possibly the country’s the diner capital).

But what about the Greater Boston area? Some can certainly be found here and there, including a few real old-school spots, such as South Street Diner in Boston, Kelly’s Diner Casey’s Diner in Natick and the Agawam Diner in Rowley, but diners don’t really seem to be a big thing locally, especially compared to the tri-state area of New York/New Jersey/Connecticut.

That’s why it’s a bit of a treat running across a diner while traveling through the region, and some don’t seem to be known at all beyond the immediate area. That’s definitely the case when it comes to a former old-fashioned diner-turned-modern eatery on the South Shore called Stars on Hingham Harbor.

Hingham is a beautiful town with miles of scenic coastline, gorgeous old homes, huge expanses of parkland and one of the most charming town centers in Massachusetts. It also happens to be a haven for restaurant lovers.

Pockets of dining spots can be found at the Derby Street Shops, near the Route 53/228 intersection by the Norwell line; at The Launch at Hingham Shipyard; and in and around the downtown area. Stars is on the edge of downtown, near where North Street heads into the heart of the town center from Route 3A on the same block as Tosca and Caffe Tosca — all three are run by the same group, Eat Well, Inc.

And while Stars isn’t right on the ocean, you can catch glimpses of the water across the street, and there are narrow but scenic parks along Hingham Harbor which make for some nice strolling before or after a meal.  

From the outside, the very colorful Stars gives hints of its past — it opened in 1989 as a no-frills old-fashioned diner. The building looks vaguely like a train car, though not to the extent of those found in Worcester and elsewhere. The inside is warm and inviting and feels more like a pleasant family-friendly restaurant (perhaps an apt description of the place) and less like a noisy greasy spoon where people grab some quick food and head out.

To the right is a bar/lounge area with window booths along the wall and a few tables between those booths and the bar itself; to the left is a dining room with more booths along both walls and some tables in the middle. The combination of hanging lights, ceiling lights, ceiling fans (with lights), prints on the walls and an abundance of windows gives the entire space a bright and airy feel, almost giving it the vibe of an art gallery or studio.

While old-school diners tend to focus on heaping portions of comfort food at cheap prices, Stars is more of a modern take on a diner, offering classic American fare with some upscale touches.

The breakfast plates here are wonderful, including the chocolate chip Belgian waffles topped with a decadent mix of strawberries and whipped cream and the cinnamon French toast made with old-fashioned cinnamon bread. The country breakfast will possibly be the first and last meal of the day — it comes complete with three eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, home fries and grilled cornbread.

The lunch and dinner menu features an endless list of comfort food items, including huge bacon and cheddar tater tots with ketchup on the side; a classic bowl of New England clam chowder with a perfect mix of clams, bacon, potatoes, and cream; fish and chips made with flaky local cod and having plenty of tartar sauce on the side; some deliciously tender teriyaki steak tips that may make people forget about some of the best tips found in the neighborhood joints just north of Boston; a half-roasted chicken (not the kind you’d probably find at a basic diner) served with herb-roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus and roasted garlic jus; a rather large portion of mac and cheese topped with tomato-parmesan bruschetta; a juicy angus burger topped with bacon, cheese and chipotle aioli; and a variety of salads and sandwiches, with the latter including a terrific blackened chicken wrap with bacon and garlic aioli.

Diners usually aren’t known for their alcoholic beverages, but since Stars isn’t exactly a traditional diner, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the offerings here are quite impressive.

The beer list is actually a bit of a stunner, as you’ll often find options that you might not see at too many other places locally, including brews from such top beermakers as Belleflower and Bissell Brothers (two top-tier breweries in Portland, Maien), Tilted Barn (Rhode Island), Ten Bends (Vermont) and Vitamin Sea (located only a few minutes away in Weymouth). Stars also serves some excellent cocktails, with its Bloody Mary being a must on a Sunday morning while options later in the day include martinis, margaritas, mojitos, raspberry lime rickeys and mimosas.

Hingham is a little off the beaten path, as much of it is several miles away from Route 3, but it is well worth getting off the highway and exploring its picturesque tree-shaded roads and laid-back town center. And while in the downtown area (or driving by the water on Route 3A), Stars on Hingham Harbor is a place that is an obvious choice if you’re hungry.

It may no longer be a basic, everyday diner, but it is a vastly appealing spot that is great for families, couples and groups of friends in the confines of a comfortable, diner-like space.

Stars on Hingham Harbor, 2 Otis Street, Hingham, MA, 02043. starshingham.com

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Fri, May 26 2023 12:41:57 PM
Sublime Puerto Rican Food in Rural NH, Just Over Mass. Border https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/puerto-rican-food-nh-review/2979521/ 2979521 post 8174868 https://media.necn.com/2023/05/cafe-el-camino.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 Like other cuisines from the Caribbean, Puerto Rican fare is something to seek out whether you’re a meat eater or more into plant-based dishes, but it isn’t all that easy to find in New England.

Most restaurants with Puerto Rican offerings tend to be in larger cities with substantial Hispanic populations like Boston, Worcester, Providence and Springfield, or in the region’s mill towns, like Lowell, Fitchburg, Woonsocket, Lynn, Fall River and Holyoke.

If you look hard enough, however, you’ll also find a scattering of Puerto Rican eateries in smaller communities as well, including one in New Hampshire just north of the Massachusetts line that’s basically in the middle of the woods. And like so many hidden gems, Café El Camino in Plaistow is one of those places that is really just known to locals, though it is just starting to get discovered outside of the area in part because its food is almost shockingly great.

If you don’t know much about Plaistow beyond Route 125 by the Haverhill border, you may think that the town is little more than a busy commercial area with endless chains and lots of traffic, but that’s only a very small part of this small southern New Hampshire community. Route 108 is as different from the southern part of Route 125 as you can get, being mainly a rural road that doesn’t even have an exit off Interstate 495 — it unobtrusively runs under the highway just east of the Route 125 intersection — and heads northward into increasingly bucolic lands.

A couple of miles north of the I-495 underpass and a bit south of the Newton border, a tiny strip mall appears out of nowhere, which is where you’ll find Café El Camino. As strip malls go, this one is rather attractive, with hanging flowers, white railings and subdued signage including Café El Camino’s, which entices diners with a sign that says “Famous Empanadas & Puerto Rican Food.”

The interior of the eatery has the feel of a takeout spot, with its ordering counter in the center and a handful of tables along the walls and front windows, though it’s certainly comfortable enough to dine in.

Before Café El Camino debuted in the latter part of 2019, the business was well known to those who frequented farmers markets — the people behind it set up shop all over the region, including in Derry, Exeter and Portsmouth, and they could also be found over the border in Boston, Newburyport and Waltham. People who visited the farmers markets knew that this was a business that focused on gluten-free foods as much as possible while also offering a number of delicious vegetarian options, and this continues to be true when it comes to their restaurant offerings—though there is definitely plenty here for meat eaters as well.

The start of a dine-in meal at Café El Camino includes an item that isn’t even on the menu, and don’t ask how it is made because the recipe’s a secret. Indeed, the soup is among the best things here, with a delightfully savory mix of root vegetables, chicken and, well, other stuff that shall remain unnamed (and yes, they do ask about dietary restriction when you first arrive).

The soup itself is so delicious that it’s tough to move on from it, but the menu has a lot of other options that shouldn’t be missed, including their signature empanadas, which come with a variety of fillings. One of the tastiest is the beef and cheese empanada, which is a bit like a cheesesteak stuffed into a crispy pastry, while the pizza empanada is a bit unusual but works well with its blend of cheese and tomato sauce. Other empanada options include cheese, chicken and cheese and a vegetarian one made with potatoes, plantains and more.

Much of what is offered at Café El Camino is fried, and in addition to the empanadas are such wonderful fried options as rellenos de papa, which are a little like arancini with seasoned beef and mashed potatoes, and alcapurrias, which are crispy fritters made with a yucca or green plantain batter and stuffed with ground beef or mashed beans and mushrooms (and both versions are also stuffed with red and green peppers and sofrito).

Rice dishes should not be overlooked here, especially the arroz con gandules, which features a marvelous mix of ingredients including rice, pigeon peas and braised ham, while a real highlight of the menu is a classic Puerto Rican mofongo which consists of a mountain of garlicky mashed plantains served in a wooden mortar and with crispy plantains on the side — it can be ordered with such add-ons as beech mushrooms, shrimp, crackling chicken, steak and onions, pork and salted cod.

If you can’t really decide what to order at Café El Camino, you may want to opt for one of their combo meals which include some of the items above along with wings, roasted pork and beef steak, and don’t forget to save room for dessert, as flan and tres leches are also available here.

When you see a little strip mall along a rural New Hampshire road, you may expect it to have a pizzeria, sub shop, takeout Chinese spot or a convenience store, but to find a road trip-worthy Puerto Rican restaurant in the middle of nowhere like this is truly something special. It also isn’t all that far from major population centers in Manchester, Nashua, Lowell and even Boston — you can make it from the latter in under 45 minutes without traffic.

Café El Camino may not be a household name, but it’s one that should be on the short list of anyone who loves discovering little-known eateries with tremendous food.

Café El Camino, 134 Newton Road, Plaistow, NH, 03865. cafeelcamino.com

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Fri, May 12 2023 02:14:25 PM
‘Bigger Mac' and More: Burgers Galore by a Lake West of Boston https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/metrowest-burger-beer-restaurant-review/2972296/ 2972296 post 8143437 https://media.necn.com/2023/04/NECN-TheFix1.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,225 The hamburger, much like pizza, is often seen as a simple food item that will be the same no matter where you order it.

But the truth is, they come in many different styles, including:

  • a meatball-shaped version that might be cooked on a barbecue grill,
  • the appetizer-sized slider,
  • the fast food and diner burger, which is grilled on a flat top,
  • its flattened cousin, the smash burger, which holds in the juices while also getting seared on the outside,
  • the gourmet burger, which usually use higher-quality meat including wagyu beef or healthier options that may use grass-fed meat.

Most if not all forms of burgers are delicious, of course, but wouldn’t it be great if a restaurant offered a few different styles all on one menu? There happens to be one such place just inside Interstate 495 in MetroWest (along with two others in Worcester and Leominster) – and The Fix Burger Bar in Marlborough has some added bonuses, including an impressive beer list and a waterside patio that’s a tremendous spot for dining and drinking as the days continue to get warmer.

Route 20 is not only the longest road in the United States (it goes from Boston to the Oregon coast), but its roots go back 100+ years. The part through eastern and central Massachusetts mostly follows an old mail route known here and there as Boston Post Road.

Parts of Route 20 still feel like an old byway — including an unspoiled stretch just east of Marlborough in Sudbury — and there’s a scenic waterside part of the old mail route west of downtown Marlborough (which is fittingly called Lakeside Avenue) that curves sharply around Williams Lake and where you can just picture what it may have been like years ago.

This is where The Fix resides. It is one of a handful of lakeside restaurants in MetroWest, helping make it a destination spot for those who yearn for water views on mild spring and summer days thanks to its patio, a holdover from that of Allora, a Mediterranean restaurant that closed in 2019.

And while the patio has a similar feel Allora’s, the interior of The Fix is quite a bit different, bringing a rustic vibe instead of Allora’s understated elegance.

The space itself is quite large, with a wraparound bar that has plenty of seats and which is surrounded by wooden booths, while further back is a spacious area with many more booths.

Burgers are certainly the name of the game at The Fix, but it’s possible to come here just for their beer (especially if you want to sit at the bar), as its beer menu is impressive enough to compete with some of the better beer bars in the region. That menu is always changing, but depending on when you go, you may find options from such local and regional breweries as Exhibit A, Greater Good, Night Shift, Wormtown, Jack’s Abby, Wachusett, Oxbow, Lone Pine, Smuttynose, Black Hog, Springdale, Allagash, Narragansett, Devil’s Purse, Burlington Brewing and more.

The Fix also offers “cellar secrets,” which is something you may find at such beloved beer bars as Cambridge Common in Cambridge and Armsby Abbey in Worcester. They’re typically pricey but, for those who are connoisseurs, it shows that this place takes its beer offerings seriously.

Some beer lovers may come here and wonder what burgers might go best with their brews rather than the other way around, but for many, it’s all about the burgers, and the number of options are almost overwhelming.

Take the classic, for instance: is it better to get the wonderfully greasy house grind? The leaner and healthier grass-fed grind? Or the juicy and rich-tasting American wagyu grind? The house grind may be the best choice, since it’s the least expensive but also has a ton of flavor, though you can’t really go wrong with any of the three — and you can get a double burger when ordering either the house or grass-fed options.

The classic at The Fix is also a build-your-own burger which can be ordered with countless cheeses, sauces and other topping, such as pickles, chips, fried egg, bacon, cherry peppers and so much more, along with a few options for buns including a gluten-free version. For those who might not be up for a beef burger, you can also order the classic with turkey, chicken, tuna, salmon or lamb, and there are vegetarian options as well.

Beyond The Fix’s classic, you can also choose from specialized burgers as well. A few highlights include the Bigger Mac, which takes the well-known McDonald’s concept and boosts it to the nth degree thanks in part to its delicious thin patties (which taste a bit like smash burgers) and a near-perfect special sauce; the Mushroom, which gets some added earthiness from a truffle mayo; and the Phenomenal, which comes with a little bit of everything – bacon, smoked gouda, fried egg, frizzled onion and sweet chili ranch, all stuffed into a brioche roll.

The Fix also serves burger bowls and offers a variety of appetizers and sides, including a decent take on poutine, crispy fried pickles and one that needs to be on the menu all the time (it is not, as of this writing) — their extraordinary polenta tots.

Allora was a special restaurant with marvelous food, and when it closed down a few years ago, it broke many hearts not because of its terrific food but for its old-fashioned feeling lakeside location. Thankfully, The Fix has stepped in quite nicely with its great burger and beer options, while also keeping the patio with those very fine water views.

And its location right off Route 495 couldn’t be more convenient, so if you’re coming from Boston, Lowell or Providence, getting to the Marlborough location of The Fix may be quicker than you think.

The Fix Burger Bar, 139 Lakeside Avenue, Marlborough, MA, 01752. thefixburgerbar.com

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Sun, Apr 30 2023 08:17:53 AM
Beyond the Snack Shack: 1st Look at New Sullivan's in Hanover https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/sullivans-hanover-review-pics/2956377/ 2956377 post 8052851 https://media.necn.com/2023/03/sullivans-hanover.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 Making the trip to Sullivan’s in South Boston when it first opens for the season is a rite of passage. For many, the combination of comfort food and ocean views marks the turning point between cold, dark days and more pleasant stretches of weather that motivate people to get outdoors.

And while the spring of 2023 is no different from years past when it comes to heading out to Castle Island to enjoy classic cheap eats, those who live in the southern suburbs suddenly have a much easier Sully’s to get to – the people behind the seaside snack shack have opened a brand-new location at Hanover Crossing.

The new location of Sullivan’s may shock some when they first see it, since it’s quite different from the little takeout joint that’s been sitting at the tip of Southie for decades. Instead, the Hanover outlet looks huge from the outside, with a very large sign out front. That helps, because without it, the restaurant would be quite easy to miss, between the extensive construction of the mixed-use development – it’s starting to see more places up and running – and the fact that the restaurant is so far back from Route 53.

Upon entering, you’ll notice that there are basically three rooms which help create a dual concept. The center room is a counter-service area (much like the Southie location) where customers place their orders. They can dine in an airy room to the left with big windows and comfortable tables.

The room to the right may cause veterans of the original Sully’s to do a double take, as it includes an actual bar (and a full bar at that) along with a mix of high-tops and booths. It’s a full-service area, which is a first for Sullivan’s – their other location at Hub Hall by Boston’s North Station is also counter-service only.

The bar area includes a garage-style overhead door which can be opened up in the warmer months to let fresh air in, and the plan is for the new Sullivan’s to have an outdoor patio as well.

Those who frequent the original Sullivan’s will see some familiar food options at the Hanover location, including the beloved Sully’s dogs (they are served in pairs here, though you can also get a single chili cheese dog) as well as their very underrated burgers that can be ordered with two or three patties.

Lobster rolls are available, and diners have their choice of the ever-popular chilled rolls or the type of warm rolls that are found in places along the South Coast and in Rhode Island and Connecticut.

The wonderful fried chicken sandwich has made it down to the South Shore as well, as has their clam chowder, fried clam strips, fish and chips, fried sea scallops, onion rings (and the ones at Hanover appear to be even better than those at the original), fries and soft serve.

Pizza is not something you think of from the original location, but not only is pizza on the menu at the Hanover outlet, but, this being the South Shore, it’s a classic bar pizza and it can be ordered with laced edges in which the sauce and cheese at the edge of the crust are caramelized, adding additional flavor and texture to the pizza.

It seems strange to be talking about the “beverage program” at Sullivan’s, as the original offers water, soda, shakes, raspberry lime rickeys and a few other non-alcoholic options. But yes, the new location has a lot of adult beverages from which to choose, starting with their extremely impressive beer list which includes local options on tap and in bottles/cans.

Vitamin Sea, which is out of Weymouth, easily holds up head-to-head against the award-winning breweries of Vermont and Maine, but their extraordinary beers aren’t all that easy to find in local restaurants and bars – Sullivan’s is one place where you can.

You’ll also find brews from other top spots in the region, including from Widowmaker, Untold, Mayflower, Trillium, Stellwagen, Break Rock, Night Shift and, yes, Castle Island, which gets its name from the peninsula that the original Sully’s calls home.

A handful of wines are also offered, as are cocktails including martinis, old fashioneds, sangria and margaritas. Naturally, you can also get their aforementioned raspberry lime rickey if you’d rather not partake in alcohol.

When it was first announced in the spring of 2022 that Sullivan’s would be opening at Hanover Crossing, there was a lot of chatter among locals as to what exactly it would be like. Would it feature the same food options as the Castle Island location? Would the quality of the food be the same?

The answer to the first question is “yes,” and based on an initial visit during their soft opening, the answer to the second question appears to be “yes” as well. And while you won’t catch much in the way of sea breezes and nothing in the way of water views at the new spot (unless it’s raining really hard), what you will get is a spacious dining and drinking spot that is really a full-fledged restaurant and which has some options that the original does not have.

Sullivan’s, 1775 Washington Street (Suite 410), Hanover, MA, 02339. sullivanscastleisland.com/location/hanover-crossing

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Sat, Apr 01 2023 08:17:02 AM
Eating Farm to Table, by Way of a Former Quarry https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/eating-farm-to-table-by-way-of-a-former-quarry/2943216/ 2943216 post 7885616 NECN https://media.necn.com/2023/03/hingham-restaurant-review.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 In some parts of New England, diners are pretty easy to come by.

Worcester is one of the first places that comes to mind, with its classic railroad car-style diners (the Worcester Lunch Car Company manufactured these types of diners in the past century). Connecticut has a multitude of diners as well, much like neighboring New York (and New Jersey just beyond, possibly the country’s the diner capital).

But what about the Greater Boston area? Some can certainly be found here and there, including a few real old-school spots, such as South Street Diner in Boston, Kelly’s Diner Casey’s Diner in Natick and the Agawam Diner in Rowley, but diners don’t really seem to be a big thing locally, especially compared to the tri-state area of New York/New Jersey/Connecticut.

That’s why it’s a bit of a treat running across a diner while traveling through the region, and some don’t seem to be known at all beyond the immediate area. That’s definitely the case when it comes to a former old-fashioned diner-turned-modern eatery on the South Shore called Stars on Hingham Harbor.

Hingham is a beautiful town with miles of scenic coastline, gorgeous old homes, huge expanses of parkland and one of the most charming town centers in Massachusetts. It also happens to be a haven for restaurant lovers.

Pockets of dining spots can be found at the Derby Street Shops, near the Route 53/228 intersection by the Norwell line; at The Launch at Hingham Shipyard; and in and around the downtown area. Stars is on the edge of downtown, near where North Street heads into the heart of the town center from Route 3A on the same block as Tosca and Caffe Tosca — all three are run by the same group, Eat Well, Inc.

And while Stars isn’t right on the ocean, you can catch glimpses of the water across the street, and there are narrow but scenic parks along Hingham Harbor which make for some nice strolling before or after a meal.  

From the outside, the very colorful Stars gives hints of its past — it opened in 1989 as a no-frills old-fashioned diner. The building looks vaguely like a train car, though not to the extent of those found in Worcester and elsewhere. The inside is warm and inviting and feels more like a pleasant family-friendly restaurant (perhaps an apt description of the place) and less like a noisy greasy spoon where people grab some quick food and head out.

To the right is a bar/lounge area with window booths along the wall and a few tables between those booths and the bar itself; to the left is a dining room with more booths along both walls and some tables in the middle. The combination of hanging lights, ceiling lights, ceiling fans (with lights), prints on the walls and an abundance of windows gives the entire space a bright and airy feel, almost giving it the vibe of an art gallery or studio.

While old-school diners tend to focus on heaping portions of comfort food at cheap prices, Stars is more of a modern take on a diner, offering classic American fare with some upscale touches.

The breakfast plates here are wonderful, including the chocolate chip Belgian waffles topped with a decadent mix of strawberries and whipped cream and the cinnamon French toast made with old-fashioned cinnamon bread. The country breakfast will possibly be the first and last meal of the day — it comes complete with three eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, home fries and grilled cornbread.

The lunch and dinner menu features an endless list of comfort food items, including huge bacon and cheddar tater tots with ketchup on the side; a classic bowl of New England clam chowder with a perfect mix of clams, bacon, potatoes, and cream; fish and chips made with flaky local cod and having plenty of tartar sauce on the side; some deliciously tender teriyaki steak tips that may make people forget about some of the best tips found in the neighborhood joints just north of Boston; a half-roasted chicken (not the kind you’d probably find at a basic diner) served with herb-roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus and roasted garlic jus; a rather large portion of mac and cheese topped with tomato-parmesan bruschetta; a juicy angus burger topped with bacon, cheese and chipotle aioli; and a variety of salads and sandwiches, with the latter including a terrific blackened chicken wrap with bacon and garlic aioli.

Diners usually aren’t known for their alcoholic beverages, but since Stars isn’t exactly a traditional diner, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the offerings here are quite impressive.

The beer list is actually a bit of a stunner, as you’ll often find options that you might not see at too many other places locally, including brews from such top beermakers as Belleflower and Bissell Brothers (two top-tier breweries in Portland, Maien), Tilted Barn (Rhode Island), Ten Bends (Vermont) and Vitamin Sea (located only a few minutes away in Weymouth). Stars also serves some excellent cocktails, with its Bloody Mary being a must on a Sunday morning while options later in the day include martinis, margaritas, mojitos, raspberry lime rickeys and mimosas.

Hingham is a little off the beaten path, as much of it is several miles away from Route 3, but it is well worth getting off the highway and exploring its picturesque tree-shaded roads and laid-back town center. And while in the downtown area (or driving by the water on Route 3A), Stars on Hingham Harbor is a place that is an obvious choice if you’re hungry.

It may no longer be a basic, everyday diner, but it is a vastly appealing spot that is great for families, couples and groups of friends in the confines of a comfortable, diner-like space.

Stars on Hingham Harbor, 2 Otis Street, Hingham, MA, 02043. starshingham.com

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Fri, Mar 10 2023 10:26:13 PM
At NH's Oldest Brewpub, the Food Might Just Outdo the Beer https://www.necn.com/eat-new-england/portsmouth-brewery-review-nh/2935762/ 2935762 post 7829562 https://media.necn.com/2023/02/portsmouth-nh-brewery-review.jpg?quality=85&strip=all&fit=300,169 There’s a certain sameness to so many small cities across the country, ones that have an abundance of chain shops and chain restaurants on the outer fringes (usually by a highway), a mix of chains and independent businesses downtown and perhaps more in the way of independent spots in their residential areas. Once you leave New England, it feels like even there, the chains seem to be taking over.

That’s why more than a few small cities in the Northeast can feel like a breath of fresh air, with indie shops and eateries giving the communities a feel of uniqueness. Newport, Rhode Island; Burlington, Vermont; Lowell, Massachusetts; and Portland, Maine, are great examples, along with the seaside city of Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

With its funky downtown area and historic neighborhoods attracting visitors from far, far away, it would be tough to think of a more visually appealing city center than Portsmouth’s, thanks to its quaint old buildings, cozy alleyways and stunning vistas of the water.

And when it comes to dining (and drinking), it can be quite difficult to choose where to go because of the sheer variety of options ranging from ultra-casual cheap eats spots to high-end special occasion places and almost every kind of cuisine imaginable. You might think that any breweries in Portsmouth would be on the outskirts where some of the old industrial buildings are, and you’d be right to an extent – a few such places are found along the railroad tracks southwest of the city center – but a couple do reside downtown, including the Portsmouth Brewery, a spot that can’t get any more “downtown” than it is and which has been in operation for many years now.

From the outside, the Portsmouth Brewery doesn’t exactly look like a beermaker where you run in to grab some cans or bottles or maybe sample some brews in a taproom. Instead, the exterior of the place looks much like many of the restaurants downtown, which makes sense because the Portsmouth Brewery is basically a restaurant that happens to include an area where beer is made.

The business prides itself on being a public house of sorts where people can come in and enjoy food and drink with family, friends, loved ones and co-workers in a low-key, relaxing environment. This is interesting because some of the newer breweries seem to be focusing on this concept of combining hospitality with great beer, which is partly as a response to mandates early in the pandemic that required the serving of food with alcohol. But the Portsmouth Brewery has been doing this since 1991 and is actually considered to be the oldest brewpub in all of New Hampshire.

The exterior of the Portsmouth Brewery makes it appear that the interior could be rather small, but the place is actually quite spacious, especially considering its downtown location with where many spaces are tiny. The space extends far back and also has levels above and below. A small but attractive bar sits to the right of the entrance while booths line the left wall, and partitions separate the booths from the bar while also creating two other dining areas: One in the middle of the space that has low-top tables, and another lounge-type space a few steps up and along the right wall beyond the bar, giving an almost terraced look to it all.

A small outdoor beer garden can be found through a doorway to the left, and three other sections (the Side Room to the left, the Jimmy LaPanza Lounge downstairs and the “Big Ass Table” in the back) are used for everything from beer socials to trivia nights to live music, private events and functions. And yes, that other space in the back with the windows? That is the brewery part of the brewery, where the beer is made.

The menu — which includes comfort food dishes with global influences — reflects the fact that the Portsmouth Brewery feels more like a restaurant that happens to include a brewery than a brewery that happens to include a restaurant.

On the menu, you’ll find a huge plate of nachos with a choice of short rib, mushrooms, chili or chicken tinga (shredded chicken in chili sauce). There’s a spectacular take on an often ordinary appetizer, bean dip, that comes with fried tortillas, goat cheese-stuffed shishito peppers, two types of beans, Monterey jack cheese and pico de gallo, and it can also be made with vegan “cheese.” Speaking of cheese, they serve a hearty poutine with cheese curds, fries, gravy and short rib meat, as well as a sleep-inducing smash burger with two patties, Vermont cheddar cheese, bacon onion jam and a zesty cream sauce. There’s also a classic fish and chips plate with whitefish from the nearby Gulf of Maine; a gluten-free jambalaya that can be made with andouille sausage and shrimp or as a vegan dish with tempeh; a yellow curry that is both vegan and gluten free and which includes braised tofu; and, for dessert, whoopie pies, which may or may not have been invented in New Hampshire (other states, including neighboring Maine, may have something to say about that).

With all that to get through, it’s almost easy to forget that the Portsmouth Brewery is, well, a brewery, and that it features an array of beer options. A real favorite here is Torn & Frayed, a traditional IPA that tends to straddle the line between bitter and citrusy, giving it a near-perfect balance that goes well with a variety of foods. The Lietuvens Baltic Porter is one of the darkest beers you’ll ever see, and its strong chocolate and coffee flavors are tempered a bit by just a hint of fruitiness. For a real kick, try Sunbird, which leans toward being a mead and has the type of warm smells and flavors that go well on a cold winter night (the kick comes from the high alcohol content, so be careful!). A much lighter beer is the Dirty Blonde Ale, which is very easy to drink and is more of a thirst quencher, perfect for those warm summer days that will be here before you know it (knock wood). Also offered are beers made by other breweries, including from Maine Beer Company and Allagash, and wines and cocktails for those who might not be in the mood for beer.

The Greater Boston area has seen some restaurant/brewery hybrid models work very well of late, but the Portsmouth Brewery has been doing this for a lot longer than some of the others. And it does it well, making it that much more difficult to choose where to eat when wandering through this enchanting city at the northern edge of New Hampshire’s small but wonderful coastline.

Portsmouth Brewery, 56 Market Street, Portsmouth, NH, 03801. portsmouthbrewery.com

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Sun, Feb 26 2023 10:53:38 AM